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beanpole

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  1. Thank you gents. What would the Hurth gearbox then weigh? Approximately 46kg? All I could find was a Dutch owner's manual that states "Gewicht motor en keerkoppeling: +/- 300kg", which seems too high. I just came across a poorly scanned copy of the Thornycroft 90/2 brochure which I believe states "Type 90/2 Engine with Hurth HBW 100 Gearbox: Weight 232 kg (511lbs)". My sailboat uses a hydraulic closed-loop (hydrostatic) drive, where the engine is mounted sideways aft of companionway and is connected to a manual variable hydraulic pump. The hydraulic motor is down in the bilge. So alignment of the engine matters only to the wet exhaust and to properly sharing the load amongst the mounts. The photo is looking aft with the companionway stairs removed. The centreline of the boat is roughly at the oil filter. Thankfully no weird Metalasic mounts.
  2. What is the dry weight of the BMC 1.5 diesel, either with or without the transmission? I cannot find this specification in any of the owner or service manuals. The engine mounts need replacing so I need to figure out a size. Also, if anyone has a recommendation for mounts I would love to hear it.
  3. Fixed! No leaks anywhere, but I completely cleaned and carefully reassembled the front plate of the injection pump and after bleeding it started no problem. Then after adjusting the idling damper the rpms behaved as well, better than before in fact. My home-made vent screw above the idling damper also works fine. Now, regarding the front plate of the injection pump. The problem was either from me improperly putting everything back in after the first time I checked the gauze, as it appears that the little regulating piston was sitting sideways down at the bottom, or it was because I had disturbed the disintegrating "washer" at the bottom of the regulating sleeve. I think the latter, because the piston probably fell out of the sleeve when I I lifted it out of the front plate, and because I don't think it's possible to assemble the front with the piston under the sleeve. The sleeve washer looked like a piece of swollen paper, and was coming apart in pieces and fibres. When I removed the front plate and gave it a good cleaning, I found bits and strands of this washer at the bottom of the front plate. So I cleaned off all remnants of this former washer and replaced it with a thin Viton o-ring I happened to have, exactly the right diameter (nice and snug). So far so good. It started beautifully 5 or so times and has run a total of 30 minutes or so. I followed the brief idling damper adjustment procedure from the shop manual, and the rpm response is also very good. This was all late at night, so tomorrow I hope to take her out on a test run.
  4. My BMC 1.5 will only start if I first loosen the upper injector pump bleed screw, the one above the idling damper adjusting screw. I have to loosen it enough to let a little fountain of fuel come out while cranking, and then it will start immediately, even with no glow plug preheat. It started doing this after cleaning the injector pump filter gauze and replacing the fuel line. At first I could not start it, no matter how much fuel I bled from the system. If anything, it seemed like not enough fuel was coming out of the injector pipes when cranking the engine. Out of frustration, I thought that maybe there was air trapped in the injection pump that required cranking to get out. So I slackened the upper bleed screw and started to crank the cold (no preheat) engine. It started immediately! I tightened the bleed screw, broke the head of the screw off, observed a pretty little fountain of diesel (not unlike that from a male infant letting it go while getting his diaper changed), stopped the engine, and cleaned up some of the fuel mess. I removed the idling damper locknut and screw, extracted the broken bleed screw, and replaced it with one I made (I'm in Canada, none to be found anywhere here, and Calcutt doesn't ship across the big pond). Cleaned everything thoroughly, reassembled, and am able to repeat the odd starting procedure every time. After the engine starts and I (gently) close the bleed screw, the engine keeps running for at least a minute or two. I stopped it intentionally a few times, and other times it reduced rpm and stopped on its own. But it would always restart right away with my newly patented crank-bleed-start procedure. When the engine is running, the idle rpm is too high, maybe 1500 to 2000, and it varies each time I start the engine. The throttle response is also really slow, so I believe the idling damper is out of adjustment. But what could require bleeding in order to start?
  5. I cleaned the oil jet at the same time, which had no debris. Both are now clean & re-installed with new sealing washers. Oil analysis report came back perfect, with no significant levels of coolant, water, fuel, or metal. I changed the oil & filter anyway, which I've done annually for the past 14 years since the engine was first put into service (that's correct, it's a BMC 1.5 that was in storage until 2002). Sounds like I should get the camshaft, pump spindle, and injection pump innards checked out. I have noticed that the governor no longer governs very well, as the rpm changes more than it used to when shifting in & out of gear.
  6. Here's a photo of the last hairball I extracted from the strainer. There were about 5 that size, most which came out after a good soaking, air gun, and by pulling at the hairs that were sticking out of the mesh. This last little hair ball required carefully prying open the strainer, removing it with a pin, then carefully closing and re-forming the strainer tube. It seemed to be that the stuff I removed was not proper filter medium, so I hope I didn't just remove something that I should have left in there. TB, thank you for the info about the brass gauze. Is there supposed to be anything inside the strainer tube? Doesn't seem like that steel mesh will strain much of anything that one would normally see inside the crankcase oil.
  7. Hello BMC experts. On a BMC 1.5 engine block on the opposite side from the injection pump resides the "injection pump driving gear filter", as shown on page C4 of the workshop manual. This is a perforated tube about 70mm long with a small nozzle at one end. After an overheating incident, mine had a few small lumps of gauze-like material filling about 1/3 of the tube. What is supposed to be inside this tube, and what is the correct way to clean and service it? I'm worried that some of the filter medium has made its way to the injection pump and may have caused other problems. Due to weeds thinner than the raw water strainer getting inside and blocking the Bowman intake, the engine overheated, over-revved, and then stopped within a second. But that's a different problem. Right now my concern is this filter.
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