captain flint

Ah right, thanks. Hadn't read those other threads with due care and attention...

I quite like the idea of getting into smuggling people into and out of London. More than I like parties anyway. I *had* wondered about inviting family and friends on a 50th birthday there and back cruise. Cos, you know, it's finite. There would come a well-demarcated home time. And no, there wouldn't be 25. But although I think it's precious unlikely that there would be any problem, the potential for issues might be the excuse I need to celebrate the passing of another year in my more customary style: by doing nothing. Ask a silly question, get an erudite answer. I really do like this forum. That's really interesting and I had no idea. I thought it was the max number of people allowed on board, and I had always scratched my head about that a bit. Ta!

I've read some of the threads on this subject. I get some of the regulatory/responsibility issues: - there's a max passenger number in my RCD paperwork (8, if memory serves, in the case of my boat) - that if there was an incident with passengers exceeding that number on board the insurance might well not pay out. - I also have read that the maximum number without holding certain RYA(?) papers is twelve I understand that trying to work out what could work in terms of pure payload beyond that is pure guesswork and therefore might sensibly be avoided. But I am curious, anyway. I'm not saying I won't be sensible in terms of what I actually do, but I feel it's ok to daydream un-sensibly. My boat measures 50'x10' boat. It weighs about 23 tonnes. It's very well ballasted (sometimes I think too much for my taste, it really hardly rocks at all). And the drainage etc holes are all a good 15+cm from the water. How many people does anyone guess I could practically carry before encountering any issues? I'm not saying I'll actually do it. But I would have thought I could carry 25+ before anything untoward was likely to happen, practically speaking. That number is plucked out of the air, but my water tank holds on excess of 1000l, so if that was running very low, that alone would be quite a lot of extra displacement, er, headroom... What do people think? I'm honestly not saying I'll do it, just curious to imagine.

I've worked out what the plan should be. Get double glazing, and use my nifty (?) patented secondary glazing solution to fit insect screens instead of secondary glazing so I can leave all the windows open on hot nights. Bingpot!

That all makes sense thanks. One thing I'm giving serious thought to is night time temperatures. I definitely think that in the evening/at night double glazing will help the boat retain more heat, and that during the hottest parts of summer that is not a good thing.

That all makes sense thanks.

Looking online it seems that in houses DG is assumed to keep things cooler in the summer, as the argon filled cavity stops the inside surface of the window getting so hot. Which makes sense. But on a boat I am guessing the question is whether the inside air temperature exceeds the outside air temperature, what with metal getting hot in sunlight and all. If the air temp inside the boat is greater than outside then I'm guessing DG would help retain that extra heat better than single glazing. But maybe what with the glass itself being warm that benefit of single glazing would be minimal. Do you miss it? Do you have any view of whether it got hotter in summer than single glazing when you hadn't opened everything up? I know I can have everything open, but especially in the evening that can mean bugs/mozzies. Obviously screens can be a solution to that. But when the outside temperature drops after sunset I don't really want to retain the inside temperature afterwards. Oh hang on. There's an old gent upstairs from my mum who used to work for NASA on thermal engineering, and also had a boat. Really. I think perhaps I should be asking him!!

I'm replacing the windows in my boat. They're getting towards the end of their serviceable life. Currently I have single glazed, plus secondary glazing, fixed with a magnetic strip, which I remove in the summer. It works wonders in the winter, keeping the boat very noticeably warmer. But when I've left the secondary glazing in place in the summer the boat gets unbelievably hot (haven't made that obvious mistake in a few years!). Removing it really makes a huge difference. I'm wondering if thermal break double glazed windows make the boat rather hot in the summer? Obviously there's a big difference between these and secondary glazing - inert gas in double glazing, versus a thick chunk of air heating up with secondary glazing. Anyone have any experience of this? (There are other factors to consider, too, cost obviously. Also aesthetics: the double glazing would have to be* black framed which I think looks smart but naff, whereas the single glazed could be anodised bright gold colour which I much prefer. Internally I have a nifty solution for making the secondary glazing look much better than it currently does, but I'll leave it at that for now as really I'm here to ask about how double glazing performs in summer) *long story. But I don't really like the powder coated 'gold' anyway, just looks like dirty yellow to me

Thanks! Didn't think of doing a reverse image search, good plan.

Oddly enough, looking for any white ended boats on apollo duck, that same boat is the first result on my screen Edited: probably not that odd now I come to think of it, google search results fairly likely to show boats for sale

Heh.

Thanks for posting. Kind of like that, but I think of that more as being white with grey panels along the side. I've found one photo that illustrates what I'm talking about, but unfortunately it somewhat undermines my argument as it looks (to my eyes) pretty rubbish

Just wondering if anyone has any photos of narrow boats (or wide beams) that have a white roof and white front and back to the cabin (ie where the doors - usually - are), but darker coloured cabin sides, decks and gunwales. I've seen a few but haven't taken photos of them, and haven't found any so far looking through Google image searches. Obviously this is hardly very important, just that I was having a conversation with a friend who said they didn't think it looks 'right', whereas I think it looks rather good, and I wanted to show them what I'm talking about.

The bit where it says something about depending on the durability required seems a little vague! Both boat yards I mentioned - who do very good 2 pack applications - insist that you just don't get a satisfactory key without shot blasting. But that doesn't mean they're right, and of course there are many products out there - even if they're right, they can only speak for those products they've used.

I've read a few comments in various threads that refer to 2 pack being applied without shot blasting. Pretty sure some have even suggested it can be done without going back to bare metal. Two good outfits I know who do it swear that's wrong, and that it really needs shot blasting to adhere properly. They both talk disapprovingly of those who use it without that level of prep, and how often they have seen and had to deal with problems resulting. You might think, "Well they would say that," - after all they both offer shot blasting and 2 pack application! But I've seen examples of it flaking off when the person who did it swears they got right back to bare metal. And I'm not just talking below the waterline (although I do also know someone who bought a brand new boat by a pretty well known maker whose boats go by his name, where the 2 pack epoxy below the waterline started flaking off within a year). I don't have any 2 pack plans right now, I'm only stirring, sorry, I mean asking, as I think it will be interesting to hear what people's views are and how they back them up, and what their experiences have been.