Canal World

Register now to gain access to all of our features. Once registered and logged in, you will be able to contribute to this site by submitting your own content or replying to existing content. You'll be able to customize your profile, receive reputation points as a reward for submitting content, while also communicating with other members via your own private inbox, plus much more!

This message will be removed once you have signed in.

Mikexx

Members
  • Content count

    164
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

2 Neutral

About Mikexx

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male

Recent Profile Visitors

431 profile views
  1. I'm wondering if the crosshead can't be removed if the stem can't be turned down and a sleeve fitted?
  2. Thanks for all the info. What type of silicone did you use?
  3. Thanks for the link. 6mm sounds quite thick. How easily does it compress?
  4. When you say neoprene tape, is the the 3M tape mentioned earlier? Where's the best source for this?
  5. Agreed about silicone, the 3M sealing tape seems quite popular. Is there a specific type/size you would recommend for windows?
  6. As per subject. My windows were leaking, and in some instances quite badly, so removed them prior to painting. They had been sealed using small and an ineffective quantity of silicone sealant. Thankfully wasn't too difficult. The surveyor commented not to use silicone claiming you would never get them out again (assuming I would need to?). These do need to be sealed in one way or another. I have searched other threads here for some clues but the topics are on sealing windows that have already been fitted. Can anyone suggest a method and suitable materials, or its going to be a thin bead of silicone again! In which case, what type of silicone?
  7. I confess to having one as a spare, but you can get them from: https://www.asap-supplies.com/bowman-marine-heat-exchanger-bl180-3318 at £730 or if you're quick: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bowman-BL180-Keel-Cooled-Manifold-/272525122214 at £250 and also claims to be new. Depending on what is wrong with it, can't you get it repaired?
  8. Tapered rollers should be fitted so they have a small perceptible play. They must run with clearance.
  9. What was the coolant return temperature? Most engine designs rely upon a minimum 20 DegsC difference between coolant exit and return.
  10. Since my initial post I was recently advised by a boat painter to use floor paint, as it's more durable!
  11. Thanks for the reply. People have only mentioned Weathershield and I was wondering why! It comes in Gloss and Satin, did you use the Gloss? I note in this range even the Satin is oil based.
  12. I mentioned this in a thread a while ago but no one bit! Has anyone used this paint?
  13. The Dulux Weathershield datasheet includes painting on primed metal surface. Few paints are intended to be permeable with the exception of some woodstains. If I'm wrong I would appreciate being pointed in the direction of paint datasheets that say otherwise. Nevertheless rather than the Weathershield series I would have though a more appropriate paint like the Dulux Metalshield series would be better for a narrowboat. Whether it is much different to the Weathershield Gloss, who knows. They also do an oil based Metalshield satin.
  14. Thanks, interesting set of videos. I just wonder what he charged the client!
  15. Many thanks. I had a quick look at the Dulux Safety Data Sheets for various Weathershield products. Judging by such features as boiling point, I think the gloss is still oil based. The satin finish is certainly not and even claims to be soluble in water.