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Mikexx

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  1. Thanks for your vote of confidence. I don't think the issue is air? If I undo the banjo I get fuel but will check. It's a new filter. My thoughts were the screen filter in the pump. If it stops, the pressure seems to "build up" sufficiently for a restart.
  2. This is a low priority task and conscious the time it has taken me so far. With the crank at a nominal 22 degrees before TDC I removed the injection pump mounting block and moved the skew gear round one notch. Before and after photos here. I feel it starts better, the issue is where it now starts and then dies, even with full throttle it dies with no smoke implying fuel starvation. After a few seconds it can then be restarted.
  3. The old injection pump didn't pump so used another pump. TBH it looked in poor condition where fuel was leaking from the throttle arm. The 'new' pump has been on a working engine. What do you mean by 'cam ring'? During the time the engine ran there wasn't any perceptible chain noise. But then I was more concerned over the black smoke filling the area I was working and there was no silencer. I think the splines/pump run in a an anticlockwise direction and the crank pulley was set close to 22 degrees. If at TDC the key would be closer to 5 o'clock. I have timed pumps by ear myself and one of the reasons why I replace the solid pipes with hoses, otherwise the 'side' cover gasket invariably leaks from crushing/manipulation of the cork gasket. The force to overcome the spring in the injector pipes is still significant! A good call about the oil jet and filter. Also an idea to remove the injector mount body and take a look at the pinion. I suppose I can gauge chain stretch from the level of backlash, but don't have any reference to compare that with. Hi Richard, many thanks for the offer. TBH I was more worried about the position of the skew gear shaft.
  4. This engine ran albeit not that well, and I don't want to run it for long without coolant. Given this was a 'training' engine before I purchased it all bets are off regards timing though I doubt the pump drive gear has been removed as it seems captive. I have timed the crank pulley to be what I believe is 22 degrees before TDC. No 4 valves are tight in this position and rocking around TDC. This is a photo of the splines with the pump removed. I don't have a pic or diagram of where the splines should be, the manuals I have at hand have only a reference to a timing tool. Can anyone indicate this is good for correct timing?
  5. Mikexx

    Plate dimension

    That's really useful to know. I've only just got some cork ones from Calcutt boats
  6. Either sticky brushes or solenoid issues. I didn't think disassembly was that difficult and the solenoid, if suspect, can be replaced. If you're adept with a soldering iron you could disassemble the solenoid and clean up the large copper contacts. I'm sure there are some YouTube videos on the subject. I supposed the 'patched' may be a reason to renew your wiring, however if it's isn't broke ................
  7. If you need a postcode for your present mooring, try using: https://www.streetmap.co.uk Position the arrow to where you are, click on 'here' to convert coordinates it will convert the position under the arrow into coordinates, including a postcode. The postcode database seems is up to date as the building I'm in had its postcode changed a year or two back. I wouldn't count on any postie delivering, but you never know! Perhaps put canal towpath in the address?
  8. I assume this is of the form in the lower image at this URL:
  9. I have lots of other things to do, hence the time taken to provide a photo. You can see the rear bearing cap join in the photo and I would say there is no room for a seal anyway. Any more detail would require the sump to be removed again as well as the bearing cap.
  10. Mikexx

    BMC 1.5 stop lever.

    I don't know the terminology so thought I would do some research. I had associated bihex with 12pt spline hence my clarification but more out of ignorance as it's not a term I've heard before. I was aware of a square based fastener called a triple square (XZN) that is also 12 sided. According to https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Socket_wrench It seems we should clarify by saying "triple square 12-point" or "12-point double hexagon".
  11. Mikexx

    BMC 1.5 stop lever.

    I recently used a standard 12 point 1/4" socket rather than the hex variety.
  12. In machinery it is custom to have a small green switch for on, typically recessed to stop an inadvertent press, and a dirty great big mushroom stop button that you can't miss. Perhaps you could apply the same reasoning to switches for stopping and starting your engine?
  13. Thanks for the heads up about the strainer. It does get annual oil changes. It has solar panels so the engine isn't run every day. It was more that the height of the liners that I noticed rather than spacing. I don't recall any honing marks and all the bores seemed smooth. Once running it does sound pretty good with minimal oil consumption. The sleeves are not new and at least 10 years old. I also don't recall and tell-tale vertical score lines from a broken ring. The clearance around the piston seems about right and minimal lip on the bore. TBH I was taking more interest in swapping heads and getting the engine going due to lack of water on board and overdue a pump-out! I should have a compression tester somewhere around here. I'm tempted to change the glow plugs as the plastic insulator on some have melted so an opportunity to kill 2 birds with one stone may avail in the near future. Thanks for all the support.
  14. One curious thing is when I took the head off the bores seemed to be sleeved, where the sleeve positions were different on 1, 4 and 2, 3. The pistons were marked std. In trying to remove the injection pump gear drive oil strainer I destroyed it. I retrieved the remnants out of its bore and the bolt and confident nothing was left behind. The jet is clear. However I can't seem to find where to get one and most parts diagrams I have for this engine omit the feature and what it's called. I would like to replace this. Finally, although the injectors were working and glow plugs glowing I had to put some oil into the cylinders down the injector bores to actually get it to start. I am aware this engine after a previous head gasket change (not me) showed very poor compression afterwards, and this also needed oil in the cylinder to seal up the rings in order to get it to start.
  15. I believe there are two. One which sites under the brim into the head, and another above holding off the injector. Purchased from Calcutt: BM12H218 INJECTOR HEAT SHIELD (TOPHAT) BMC 1.5 & 1.8 BM12H219 INJECTOR HEATSHIELD COPPER UNDER WASHER BMC 1.5 &1.8 The under washer is has a slight larger inner and outer diameter and thinner than the one sitting under the injector. I got 2 of everything due to my pessimistic/realistic nature.
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