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About Mikexx

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  1. The workshop manual is also very clear and in bold print says "IMPORTANT, RIGHT HAND PROPELLOR REQUIRED". Just an idea.
  2. What's the gearbox? Is there any reason you can't use it in reverse for forward motion?
  3. That is something to bear in mind, certainly if the damper becomes difficult to move. However, with the aid of a torch or using a snake-cam it should be easy to see any obstruction?
  4. I know this was over a week ago but only just seen this thread. Has anyone thought of an underwater camera? Something like: Just a thought!
  5. I would like to know the voltage as much as the current. The cabling for glow plugs often seems undersized given the expected currents and can account for a modest power loss. You can get croc-clip style meter probes for those occasions when you need 3 or 4 hands!
  6. I purchased one of these: The exististing collar on the stove I have has the dimentions: Ext 5.033" to 5.080" Int 4.85" to 4.87" The adapter boss that comes with the kit has upper and lower dimensions: Ext 5.19" INt 4.79" and Ext 4.986" Int 4.66" Photos below. I can turn down any of these dimensions to fit externally or internally to the stove collar using fireclay to lubricate fitting and for sealing. However, I'm wondering if I should make a ledge (ring) inside the stove flue and sit the new 4.5" flue on this and pack with rope and fireclay? Any ideas?
  7. As per: Is aluminium acceptable? If it is then I could cast my own!
  8. What's wrong with a local motor factor. I'm not a great fan of Eurocarparts as many of their own named brands are poor and lack parts that would normally be included by others. However their Mann filters, as per an earlier thread CAV Separator / sedimentor seals, were just £1.64 using their coupon you get when you accept/receive emails from them. There were other cheaper ones too.
  9. Do all the men on your boat claim to have immaculate aim? Or don't you have toilet facilities?
  10. I feel something a little less combustible would be required? Thanks, that is interesting. I suppose, depending on its thickness, I could grind or cut some of the material away to match the roof if necessary.
  11. A quick Google gets this:'s handbook BMC 1.5-Litre Diesel Engine.pdf or: though its all very dated and perhaps only partially useful in a marine environment. It does look more like a 'service manual'!! I think this website breaks links with spaces, or even double space, such you might have to use cut and paste or use the tinyurl link
  12. The roof curved so the collar will need to be angled. I can measure the angle but not sure if there's much variety and one size fits all? You are correct, the current flue fits over the stove collar. I need to have another look at the stove collar as I don't recall an internal ledge for a pipe to sit on. I guess this is leaning to a 4.5" tube. with 1/4" of packing (if I'm lucky).
  13. Static electricity is all about surface charge and the currents involved are negligible when compare to those required for galvanic corrosion.
  14. The current chimney was a bodge! I now realise I ought to have a collar but one thing that is bothering me is the current hole I have is 175mm, ie 7". I'm hoping a collar will cover this hole. I'm confused by the sizes. I'm pretty sure the stove I have has a flue stub of 5" external diameter. I don't know if the flue sizes are governed by internal or external diameter. I was looking at the multifuel fires fitting kit by: but I need to check the size of the collar. I also thought I'm not meant to reduce the flue size if mine is really a 5" flue. I also need the internal trim you mentioned, though was thinking of a brass annular type if they exist. If I understand correctly the internal single skinned flue pipe should go into the collar and end flush with the highest external surface. Many thanks indeed.
  15. I have come across some kits that I'm leaning towards fitting. When flues are described as 5" or 4.5", is this the internal or external diameter?