Ex Brummie

Flashback a couple of centuries or so. Why do we need these ditches? Come forward another century or so, and do we really need these 'snorting beasts'? What about the 1950's? Did we really need these swathes of concrete? Where would we now be without canals, railways and motorways? I agree that the saving in time is minimal, but these will be in addition to the existing tracks and anyone using trains knows that there is a need for extra capacity. Any large infrastructure project has its detractors. It is just that this one impacts upon those who consider themselves above the average individual andcan make lots of noise. If we want to keep moving, with an burgeoning population, then so be it. Carry on.

This is the same oil I use and will change 4 times a year. All I know is that if I use a cheaper oil, I use maybe 1 litre between oil changes, whereas with the Morriss It burns none. For the sake of about £30 per annum (£7.50 per oil change) on original cost, deduct the 4 litres burnt so reducing to £18 per annum, why look to go cheap? Also, if the oil is not burning, them I reason it probably does a better job. Engine oil is an important contributor to engine cooling besides lubrication.

Having started my boating with a 24ft Burnham, I still have a soft spot for cruisers. I moved to a steel boat in the late 80's when boating had become an integral part of my life, and still have that boat. Primitive by today's standards, but still very comfortable. I was glad it was steel on Sunday, when a Chas Hardern hireboat lived up to its equine name and 'galloped' into me at full chat near Wrenbury.

I have a Mercury aerial which has a 12v booster . It cost £20 or so off ebay. I have it on a short pole that fits into a magmount. It is directional, but a quick check from local roofs is sufficient. If none available, then a couple of autotunes gets an approximation that can be fine tuned using the info button to show signal strength.

One other (I.M.H.O.) important point I should have made is that balancing the cold supply to the mixer with the hot supply is necessary. The multipoint is quite restrictive at 6 litres per minute, and the introduction of cold water to the mixer will give the water an easier path, so the cold wins and flow to the heater is reduced. I overcame this by throttling back the cold supply with an isolating valve that is turned down to about 1/4 of the bore. You can experiment to achieve the best result. When multipoint water heaters were popular in normal domestic situations, all the manual mixing valves had specific versions for them with a smaller cold water orifice.

Using a manual mixer can upset the flow through the heater, and if it is on high flame with warmish water coming in the heater will cycle as the flow rate is too low to operate the diaphragm. You can get a similar effect if the pressure switch on the pump becomes unstable. At this time of year, I find a mid setting on the low flame can be finely tuned by the manual mixer. I've steered clear of thermostatic mixers as they lose performance over time with scalling.

Ref the traffic quotes, especially reference the Llangollen, following an accident on Sunday, had to leave the boat just above Quoisely Lock. Was O.K Monday, but returning today, arrived to find the boat tied to piling by mooring ropes. I'd left it on piling hooks with dedicated ropes spliced on. The front rope had snapped, and the hook gone, and when Itried to re use the rear hook, it kept pulling out as I tightened the rope, and closer inspection showed the hook bottom had straightened out!!!!! Thanks to the rescuer if you read this.

Just bought a Rotary automatic watch for £28.10.

Just keep your dirty black bitumen hull away from the shiny white cruisers,

British standard marking for expansion vessels (accumulators) is red for primary heating circuits, white or blue for potable water. The red ones are not coated to resist tainting the contents. They are also likely to corrode quickly with the continual introduction of fresh water leading to premature failure. If there is a label on the vessel, it is worth checking the full specification. Some imported makes may well be exceptions to this rule.

If the accumulator is red, it should not be on a potable water system. If 10 litres or so, then repressurising time could be as you describe. When you first turn on the tap, it may be putting out water faster than your pump would do on its own, so the pump has to make up for this. Have you checked that the calorifier does not have an air pocket in it? This could also affect the refilling time.

Tony, I wont quote your whole post, but my pump is higher than the tank, so with the pump turned off, I don't think any water would pass through the unit with an open pipe on either side of it.

Perhaps I should have said resistance ACROSS the diaphragm. In the de-energised state, as far as I understand pumps, nothing should pass through the pump.

You name it, over the years, it's probably been fitted. Jabsco, Shurflo, Fliamma. Currently a cheap Chinese one off Ebay 3 years ago. I always turn off the pump when away from the boat, and in winter drain down if really low forecast, otherwise just open taps and drain multipoint. If there were a freeze after the pump, the resistance through the pump diaphragm would stop syphoning, if the pump body froze and split ( a common occurrence) then it would introduce air to stop the syphon. If a freeze before the pump, then it would drain back to the tank.

My tank is fed this way and has been for 30 years. With the tank 1/2 full, it takes about 2-3 seconds for the pump to prime. The big advantage is that if something fails in the pump, or there is a freeze that results in a burst pipe, you don't end up with a bilge full of water, and there is no chance of a failed isolating valve preventing pump maintenance. Also, there is no chance of debris clogging up the outlet hole from the tank.