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Daltonia

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    103
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About Daltonia

  • Birthday 31/01/1969

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  • Website URL
    http://www.bryophytesurveys.co.uk/

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Saul
  • Occupation
    Bryologist
  • Boat Name
    That One
  • Boat Location
    Saul Junction Marina

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  1. Condensation inside channels on the side and bottom of the window frames is no problem, because it just drains down the channels and then outside, but not from the top of the frame, from where the water drips down directly into the boat. My second image above is looking directly upwards into the top edge of the window frame.
  2. I’ve now tried two approaches to try to combat the condensation issue on the aluminium window frames: Adhesive neoprene strips – this works impressively well (see image below), but the strips cannot easily be applied to inner frame surfaces, so significant condensation remains. Insulating paint (Thermalmix added to standard paint) – this appears to reduce condensation a little, though significant condensation remains (see image below). I will now try a third approach, which I was trying to avoid, the secondary acrylic glazing attached with magnetic strips
  3. Please could you clarify? Am I right in thinking there was condensation onto the brass surfaces, so you applied insulation paint and this solved the problem? If so, what paint did you use and did it adhere to the brass OK without some sort of preparation? Thanks.
  4. Thank you Tony. Just ordered some neoprene tape from Seal+Direct (AEN9 A/B Expanded Neoprene 25x3mm); will let you know how it goes. Cheers, Des
  5. Hello Forum, The inside surrounds of my windows are alluminium, upon which water condenses and, missing the internal guttering, drips inside the boat (see below). I'm wondering if some sort of insulative coating can be applied to the alluminium to prevent water condensing. Any ideas? Many thanks for any help. Cheers, Des
  6. Thank you, very helpful :-)
  7. Many thanks for the replies. I've opted for the stove paint. I'll strip it first and then apply an etch primer, before spraying with the stove paint. Perhaps it has peeled because an etch primer was not used originally. Interesting article on painting stainless steel here: http://www.bssa.org.uk/topics.php?article=119
  8. I have a live-aboard friend who is having great trouble finding an insurance company willing to insure his car. The car is registered with the DVLA at the address of the local post office, as is his driving license. Insurance companies are telling him they will not insure the car because he does not live at the address where his car is registered. Has anyone found a company willing to insure a car that is registered at a local post office? Thanks for any help.
  9. My chimney, installed when the boat was built in 2014, is looking flakey. The paint applied to the stainless steel is peeling away. Any advice on a more long-lasting treatment? I guess with stainless steel it is rather tricky due to the smooth surface? Maybe the best bet is to strip it down to the stainless steel surface and leave it at that? Or perhaps there is some black coating that can be applied which is proven to last on such chimneys? Any advice is appreciated :-)
  10. Ah, I see, thanks very much. I was originally planning to use Intertuf 16 until I found out the original blacking was Comastic. It seems the Intertuf may again be a reasonable choice?
  11. Thanks. I've just cleaned a bit close to the water-line then waited for it to dry. Then rubbed a kitchen towel across it with a dab of white spirit. The towel became black. I then scraped a little of the blacking off and put it in a dish with a little white spirit. It dissolved. Does this mean the current surface layer, at least, is not Comastic but is a bitumen-based product?
  12. I'm planning to re-black my 58' and 10' narrowboat this summer. It was built in 2014 and originally blacked with Comastic. I've owned it since Aug 2017 and nothing in the paperwork suggests it was re-blacked since new. However, I'd like to be sure before re-blacking with Comastic. How do I check that the current surface layer of blacking is Comastic? Also, approximately how much Comastic would be needed for two coats of the sides plus a third coat along the water-line (I don't plan to re-do the bottom)? As always, many thanks for your valuable help :-)
  13. There's nothing wrong with the cheap Maplin switch. I'm only changing it because the expensive one, which Brayzel kindly sent to me for nothing, matches the other switches on the boat. Purely aesthetics, nothing more.
  14. Andrew Crook of Brayzel tells me the website problem is the fault of their troublesome website designers. They are still very much in business. Very helpfully, he kindly sent me a switch free of charge, which I shall use to replace the Maplin switch I installed in the meantime :-)
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