Barroca Grande 2

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  1. Okay peeps here is my new planned set up for the batteries. I don't need to worry what is happening at the other ends of my cables as I am not messing with them at all. All I am doing is removing old leisure batteries, changing the ends/connectors of those cables that need increasing from M6's to M8's to fit on the new M8 screw down studs (himself has the equipment to do this crimps heat shrinks and whatnot). I have purchased some more new replacement 50m2 cables re new distances between the batteries, a couple of new m6/m8 terminal/connectors for the ends of the new cable going to the busbars, one each of busbars at 210Ah (and covers) which will at least save us having to change the ends of the Mikuni and Solar panel wires. whoopdedoo shame it doesn't save us having to do it with the smartgauge wires which are tiny wee and not really condusive to an M8 terminal/connector! Hopefully the new stuff will arrive before we go down to the boat. Right better actually do some work today! Toodle pip. new planned set up re batteries.pdf
  2. Now you are just being mean ????????
  3. Oh good. The bank is going to be 4 x 160Ah so 640Ah. The inverter is the Victron 3000 but I rarely have it on unless I need to use either the washing machine, or the oven. I mostly cook on the gas hob. ok no problem will make the ends M8 as per previous plan. Thanks Tony for your input most appreciated
  4. Mikuni has a 30A fuse, Solar panels and the smartgauge. I plan on putting the Victron and links direct to the M8 bolt terminal
  5. I thought so but I got himself drawn into the argument and he insisted I ask the question So next question in case the M8 bolt is not long enough for all cables and we need a bus bar can you recommend which size I go for? I am liking the ones below but they are rated as 210A is that overkill? To be honest using a bus bar looks like it might help anyway as we were going to have to change all the ends from M6 to M8 and this saves us a job. Silver lining etc etc http://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/4-point-negative-distribution-block-busbar.html http://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/4-point-positive-distribution-block-busbar.html
  6. http://www.smartgauge.co.uk/batt_con.html So using Method 2 lBattery A will have on the positive side three large cables direct onto the M8 Bolt plus the solarpanels, mikuni and smartgauge cables either direct to M8 bolt or via a bus bar and Battery D on the negative side has 4 large cables direct onto the M8 bolt plus the solarpanels, Mikuni and smartgauge cables either direct onto the M8 bolt or via a bus bar. Method 2 not optimum as batteries slightly unbalanced. Now if we go for Method 4 and have effectively two pairs of battery banks. Do we then have to have all the above cables onto Batteries B+ and C- as per their diagram or can we move the smaller Solar Panels, Mikuni and smart gauge onto A+ and D-, declutterng the terminals and thereby eliminating the need for busbars?
  7. tittle! not what I wanted to hear.
  8. Hi all battery afficionados I am about to take new batteries down to the boat and do the change over. I have searched the forum and found some interesting things I did not know before. Now I would like some clarification. The old set up (six batteries 110Ah) was always a bit higgeldy piggeldy as we couldn't fit all the ends onto the terminals. When I had to buy new batteries at short notice we basically had to do the same again so Set 2 comprises 5 leisure batteries 115Ah I will label them A to E. Positive side Battery A currently has solar cable and one from the Isolator Switch and link to battery B Battery B has two links A and C Battery C has link to B and D as well as smartgauge Battery D has link to C and E as well as one to the Isolator Switch Battery E has link to D Negative side Battery E has link to D and one to Victron and one to the Mikuni Battery D has links to E and C and one to the smartgauge Battery C has links to B and D and one to the solar panels Battery B has links to A and C and one to Victron Battery A has link to B and one off to the Starter Battery Now the 4 new batteries 160Ah have a M8 bolt type fitting so no need for the terminal clamps as used previously so we hope that it will be easier to fit more cables to a single post. The proposed layout is going to be Positive side Battery A has both the Isolator cables and the link to B Battery B has link A and C Battery C has link to B and D Battery D has Link from C and solar and Mikuni and smartgauge (ie 4 one large and three small) Negative side Battery D has link to C and both large cables to Victron Battery C has links to D and B Battery B has links to A and C Battery A has link from B then the large one to Starter battery and the negatives to Solar Mikuni and smartgauge. I am reasonably happy with this BUT which order should I pile the cable ends for best connection (thinking smartguage here) (My reasoning for putting both Isolator switch connections to one and both Victron to the other is I am not 100% sure why there are two or if this is immaterial or not and if material and I put them the wrong way around it could mean that they are not going to pass through the whole bank. If you get my drift.) I have printed off the smartgauge info linked to in a previous post about how to correctly interconnect multiple batteries but a) this doesn't address the issue of all the other items connected to the bank. I have basically assumed that by having the charger going one way and the solar and everything else going the other way around that that is okay. Otherwise Everything would have to go onto two diagonally opposite terminals and b ) we don't have enough extra cabling to do the fancy Methods 3 or 4. Battery etc.pdf Schematic, what I drew, of current set up since oct 14.pdf
  9. Don't even consider a folding electric bike. folding by all means electric by all means but not the two combined. I had one and it didnt do what I wanted it to do. And as for trying to cycle it without the battery it is like cycling through treacle. My ancient cheap heavy bike was actually faster then the folding one. The problem with them is the limiter to 15mph. On cheaper ebikes they basically limit it to 15mph completely so even going downhill you have to pedal like crazy to keep up with someone on a normal bike. Plus it says they can do up to 30miles on a single charge but they can't. I now this for a fact as it gave up on me 7 miles from home and I had to flag down a passing farmer in an landrover to take me the last 3 miles home as cycling 4 miles without power after 20 plus miles at eco level nearly killed me. I now have a very expensive ebike that you can ride like a normal bike withut the battery and if you are pedalling faster than 15mph then the electric motor simply stops assisting and you can go as fast as you dare. OH has clocked 30+mph on it going downhill, a figure I am never going to be able to achieve!
  10. Thanks might do that if push comes to shove. We are visiting in three weeks time to put my new leisure batteries in a week before I take it over, so will see if all is resolved then. Tara ra bit.
  11. Ah in that case it will have to wait until August. Thanks anyway.
  12. I appreciate that but I am not on the boat at the moment my son is. I will be back on the boat in August and hopefully heading up to Northampton with all things ship shape and as they were before it was installed in a marina for a year. By front cover do you mean of the Victron? it is scary back there. I did however take pictures of the back of the engine panel to see if I could spot an obvious loose connection there but it all looks fine (to me)
  13. Well I couldn't upload my videos but here are a couple of photos. One of the Victron (ignore the straps these were taking the weight of the new battery as I installed it using my feet to push it onto the swim). Two is the engine panel showing that the domestic light didn't come on and it should. three the engine running showing the domestic light does actually have a slight glow. (I think that is right obviously I took these in April and I have slept since then) shame I can't upload the videos. It would explain such a lot.
  14. It is a Victron 3kw so should be all tickety boo. However I query the 240 fuse box thingy as it doesn't seem to care whether the dial is pointing to shoreline front, shoreline back, gen, (I can't remember the names but it has three 'sources' I don't have a generator but that is one of the 'choices') as soon as I switch the victron on it lights up as polarity ok . When I am on the boat I am not attached to shore power so I switch this to off and shut the door on it and forget it even exists. But I put it to shoreline front for my son and for living purposes he has been fine. I have tried to find a loose connection regarding the new anomaly re the engine not charging the leisure as the panel lights indicated that this might be a problem. I took some videos which demonstrate the engine charging anomaly but they are too big to include here.
  15. Thanks for that. I might consider the small panel. At 20w does it need a controller? I do have my original solar controller still in situ on the boat from when I had stick on panels. I could possibly use that for the starter battery. (The new solar panels have an mppt one) My smartgauge is telling me categorically that the current solar set up is not charging the starter battery. Bizarrely when I was there installing the replacement starter battery in April it was also telling me that the engine was not charging the leisure (I covered the solar panels over) not sure what that was about but hopefully once I am on the boat myself and moving that that will resolve itself. I never had the boat on shorepower before and it may be an anomaly with that. Any hoo recommendations for a marine electrical / Beta engineer between Uxbridge and Northampton just in case it doesn't revert to normal. I will stop hijacking this thread now. Thanks