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DaveR

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    464
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About DaveR

  • Birthday 25/02/52

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Burton upon Trent
  • Interests
    Finding time to be onboard.
    DIY
    The 'Boro'

Previous Fields

  • Occupation
    Master Mariner
  • Boat Name
    Legacy
  • Boat Location
    Shobnall

Contact Methods

  • ICQ
    0

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  1. Ah the Caldwells catch. No longer available I am afraid. I have been searching for a replacement myself for many months now but I have had no success. Have tried the catch from Screwfix/Wickes but the dimensions are not good enough to allow the catch to reach the frame when bolted onto the glass. The windows are now old and I am thinking of replacement units - drastic but I am not aware of an alternative.
  2. Rivers, broad canals & single handing
  3. Same as ours only we went a bit further an had it made 66" wide so that there is only a 6" gap to the bulkhead to slide by when the bed is pulled out. No problems for me and as you say, the larger bed make for a better nights sleep. Well done on a great build, I cheated and had ours done at Dobson's boat yard. Dave R
  4. So who is at fault here? Me for wanting it done in Winter? Fertan for not publishing curing times? Keelblack for using the best application time in their advertising gumph? Your car comes with a set of fuel economy figures and a top speed - which are un-achievable. Should we be suing the car makers or just using our common sense? I am not interested in trying to apportion blame here. I want to find out how this stuff can be applied correctly for the benefit of all canal boat owners who may want to make a choice in the future.
  5. As promised my investigations into what may have gone wrong with the Keelblack applied to Legacy has turned up an interesting point. Keelblack advocate the use of Fertan as an anti-rust primer. Fertan is a very good product, well tried and tested. My inquiry to Fertan about curing times solicited a very interesting response. I quote :- Now you've asked the question it amazes me that we've been thundering along since 1980 without one. The figures are: 20C 24 hours 15C 36 hours 10C 48 hours At 20C a great deal occurs in the first 4 hours and the remaining 20 hours is very useful but less vital. At 15C what occurs in the first 4 hours at 20C takes place over 12 hours. It took me a few reads of the last line to understand that what is meant and this is that the curing takes 4 hours at 20 degrees but now takes over 12 hours at 15 degrees, My boat was done in February where the ambient temperature was about 10 degrees. From the information above I would extrapolate to say that at 10 degrees the important part of the curing time is 36 hours. The Fertan should have been left for 48 hours to cure and not as claimed from Keel Black only 24 hours. So it would appear that the information given on the Keelblack web site "How to use, instructions" needs updating to reflect the above curing times, again I quote from the document:- Old steel surfaces should be pressure washed clean, all marine growth removed and freed of flaking material with a scraper. Heavy rust should be wire-brushed or ground back to bare steel then primed with Fertan in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions and the chemical reaction allowed to work for 24 hours. Any residue from the Fertan must be washed off before Keelblack is applied. On painted surfaces previously treated with bituminous paint or 2-pack epoxy, ensure all flaking paint is removed where possible and flatted back. If the type of previous coating is unknown, a small test area should be tried to check that there is no reaction between it and Keelblack. Keelblack will flow between old paint and the steel and can help to re-bond previous coats of bitumastic to the hull but Keelblack applied over flaking paintwork may detach. As Fertan indicated no one has asked them about curing times so I wonder where Keelblack obtained this information? I am going to leave the Keel black on the boat through the summer and dry dock her again this winter where the parts of the hull where the Keelblack is failing will be repaired but I do wish to give Keelblack a fair test and so with the correct curing times for the Fertan more Keelblack will be applied. I will update the information much later in the year. Dave R
  6. Just to resurrect this topic - things may not be as they appear in this thread. It is reported that KeelBlack has not taken to some boats (mine included) and I would urge caution when deciding which product to use on your boat. I am investigating further next week and will, hopefully, have some further information to share.
  7. Have had Keel Black applied and it is failing - not only on my boat but on 4 or 5 other boats which have been done. I am told that the makers of Keel Black now advise that the anti rust primer must "go off" for 4 days before the keel black is applied. This would mean (for me) a double dry dock charge on the top of the increased cost of the Keel Black. So any thought of saving money in the long run is now outweighed by the increased costs during application. End result is that the Keel Black is going to have to come off and will be replaced by ordinary black. I have been told that the makers of Keel Black have not been too much help and are denying any responsibility for the failure. I will be down at the boat yard next week and will make further inquiries to get to the bottom of what I was told over the telephone.
  8. I bought some scrap track from the North Yorks railway society. At £15 a yard (40kg) it stores easily under the galley units. Dave R
  9. Alan, I have just finished the same job on Legacy. It was done when the weather was warmer and you have the challenge of wrapping up warm but keeping flexible and not being a Michelin man. Now the job is done, two full days of planning, cursing and hot drinks while I though about things, oh it feels great. The satisfaction is huge. Now comes the challenge of making the circuit diagram - whilst things are fresh in the mind. Good fun, Dave R
  10. I have a Prance model which I bought on Amazon. Had it for many years and so is a different model from those on offer now. When mounting the camera I have found that the quality of the recording improves if the bonnet is included at the edge of the screen. The quality of recording both day and night is good enough for police or insurance purposes. You are right that the quality of driving has gone down somewhat which has made me into a more defensive driver by expecting the worst from others. Dave R
  11. The engine is a 2004 vintage. Will take a look when I am back at the boat yard on Monday. Thanks for the replies. Dave R
  12. Good evening, Legacy's Beta 43 is out of the hull and I wish to add an oil pressure gauge sensor to the engine. Only I can not find the oil pressure sensor for the alarm which is already fitted and so I have no idea where I can add the gauge sensor to the engine. The Beta 43 books are no help at all, please, can the good folk of the forum point me in the right direction? Thanks Dave R
  13. The pictures show how rust can start and spread when left alone.They could have started from impact damage or just a pooly applied paint covering, if the bpat is newer then it could be scale left on the steel during building. I did do a "painting course" done by Hempel. They showed us pictures of rust, done by a real close up camera. It showed that rusting takes on the appearance of a mountain range with peaks and troughs. In these troughs are deposits of iron oxide (RUST) which if left will often produce that small, spotted rusting that can appear on the paint some months after you have fininshed. Grinding and power wire brushing does not always remove these left over rust deposits, they claimed the only way was to wash and scrub the cleared area using soap and lots of watr. Using a rust defeating primeror base coat should be "screwed" into the steel where the rust has been to have the bristles push the paint into these troughs. If the paint is applied by the usual sweep brushing it can lay across the peaks and leave the troughs un treated. If a spirit (paint thiner etc) is used as a de-greaser then the small spot of grease is spread over a larger area. Only washing with soap and water will remove grease. There are many mechanics out there who will tell you that washing their hands in a spirit does not clean the hands. Yes it will remove some but not all. Washing also removes leftover dust which can affect the final paint covering. Reading the instructions on paint is another important point. Many paints have very different application instructions. Don't rush things left the paint dry thoroughly but be careful about the "overcoat time" and stick to it. Make sure that the primer, undercoat and top coat are all compatable. Preferably from the same manufacturer. Dave
  14. Thanks for the ideas. Been on the cut out of internet coverage. What I have found is that the belt squeals at the start when the demand is about 40 amps. When the Sterling controller kicks in and the demand goes to 90 amps then all is quiet. This is the opposite to what I have been used to. I do have a spare belt and I will fit and give the pulleys a good clean off with some surgical spirit. Thanks Dave r
  15. Good morning, I have just changed the alternator on Legacy (Beta 43, 100A) and I am having difficulty getting the belt tight enough to stop it squealing. I resorted to using a ratchet strap round the body of the alternator to a strong point and gave it full pull (theoretically 1 tonne). I tightened the bolts but still have a mild squeal as the demand on the alternator increases. Obviously there is a special trick to do this job. Unfortunately I do not have the special socket to fit the center of the crank pulley and so can not put the belt on after adjusting the position of the alternator. Any other thoughts please? Thanks Dave R