rusty69

I haven't read all this thread, but you haven't got one of them crappy red tab isolator switches that is dropping voltage have you?

If you mean the flap at the back (top left looking from the rear), I'm sure ours hasn't got a seal.It's just a round disk operated by a lever that covers/uncovers the hole in the rear of the stove and provides an airwash system for the glass. Are you sure your baffle plate/backboiler, flue and glass are clean? ETA. I spose its possible you have a hole/crack in the ducting (air conductor) that feeds the air to the glass that is venting smoke.

We three kings of orient are One on the tiller, one in the car One on the scooter, beeping his hooter. Whilst Paul and Mary drink at the bar

Ok, I'm getting a bit out of my depth here, which probably means I should leave things well alone. Thanks MP. Is there a preferred method of achieving this (pic attached of inside of euro plug)?

Having had a number of years out of my lovely Xantrex Prosine 1000i, I decided to upgrade/downgrade (delete as appropriate) to the Statpower 1800i inverter. Being faced with the same issues as before, I also have the added confusion of a euro/schuko socket instead of the UK BS1363 socket. What are my options to N-E bond this inverter (assuming it can be done): 1. Replace the BS1363 socket with a UK socket, and make the NE bond inside the inverter. 2. Keep the euro connector and as above make the N E bond in the inverter. 3. Don't bother to bond it at all. 4. Keep my truty 1000i and stick the 1800i back on e-bay 5. A N other option I haven't considered. Notes: Looking at the back of the socket (see pic),how would the connection be made if a replacement UK socket was used. I assume at the output of the small circuit board. The euro plug appears to fit either way round in the socket. Is this a problem? Comments gratefully received.

Sunday is a day of rest. All I can say, is that If the flight is going to be fly infested, then... You can leave your Hatton. And all your other clothes, come to think of it.

I would think so. Furthermore, it's a Sonoff a bitch to do so if you aren't electrically compatable.

It's absolutely true. There used to be a boat moored at the top of the flight infested with these fly larvae. Each year, in the spring, the fly would exit the boat in huge numbers and descend the Hatton flight at great speed. The boat became known as the Warwickshire fly boat.

Racing around to come up behind you again

Isle of Wight ferry? Sorry sir nibble, welcome back.

And you run, and you run to catch up with the sun But it's sinking

No one told you when to run You missed the starting gun

And then one day you find Ten years have got behind you.

I was under the impression that red oxide is porous, so left with no top coat in a wet bilge will not last long. The water based red oxide of today is not a patch on the oil based stuff off old. I epoxy coated the bilge of our engine room a few years ago, and that has stood up pretty well, but does require good prep.

Also worth pointing out that there are two different height 19Kg calor bottles. We can just get one of the shorter types in our gas locker and still close the lid. They are generally cheaper than the 13Kg size, and you obviously get more gas too. Whether they are stocked in the same quantity by canal side yards is also worth considering, as is the extra weight carrying and lifting them.