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smileypete

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smileypete last won the day on November 24 2014

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  1. Found an interesting doc while googling around today; 'Sandwich panels for external cladding – fire safety issues and implications for the risk assessment process.' http://www.cookeonfire.com/pdfs/eurisolgreenreport.pdf Written in the year 2000, so the risk of conbustible panels has been known about for some time...
  2. If the load output can be set to 24/7 it could be used to remotely warn of over discharging batts, by charging a cheap/surplus PAYG phone via a 12v to usb charger. All it needs is to set the phone to text when charging power is removed for some period of time, this can be done using the 'E-Robot' app on Play store. The charging circuit could also be interrupted by a door entry switch or relay from the engine starter, giving some sort of security function too.
  3. Looks like the relevant doc is BCA Guidance Note 18, Use of Combustible Cladding Materials on Residen- tial Buildings: https://www.allerdale.gov.uk/downloads/bca_guidance_note_18_use_of_combustible_cladding_materials_on_residential_buildings.pdf Apparently Scottish building regulations only allow totally fire resistant cladding for tall buildings, undoubtedly the building regs for the rest of the country will be bought into line with this.
  4. Reading in between the lines, it sounds like the charger is going to float voltage well before the batts are fully charged, a fairly typical problem. A work-around is to power cycle the charger when it drops to float voltage, until the 'tail current' is acceptably low (for sealed batts say between 0.5% and 1% of capacity in Ah - at the correct charge voltage). If there's no panel ammeter, an alternative is to get a handheld multimeter with a clamp that can read DC amps, they can be had for £25+ off Ebay, ask for recommendations if interested in getting one.
  5. How about contact Numax and ask what the recommended charging voltage is?
  6. Sorry this doesn't sound helpful but it could be worth just contacting Yuasa and asking them... If they fail or underperform down the line it should help if their charging recommendations have been followed.
  7. That is why you have GI with LED status monitor... Will alert to issues with supply earth, or earthing issues on the boat or possibly even a nearby boat in extreme cases.
  8. YBW forum looks like a good source of help on pump out woes. Maybe if the hose is in good nick and pricey to replace it could be crushed a little or bashed on paving or concrete to loosen the scale. These days pubs often have low flush urinals that use enzyme blocks to prevent scale buildup, dunno if/how it'd work with seawater. Phospates like polyphosphates are another one.
  9. The motors are usually pretty reliable If it IS the pressure switch, a knockoff 'square d' type external pressure switch can be had from Ebay for a bit more than a tenner, or about £20 for the real deal: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/IBO-water-pressure-control-switch-1-4-FEMALE-type-for-pump-vessel-tank-/182164705529 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/IBO-pressure-control-switch-1-4-MALE-type-for-fitting-pump-vessel-tank-water-/182162171789 The likes of toolstation should do some brass bits to adapt to a bigger BSP thread, say £15 all in with the switch. Generally if the pump is new or the internal switch renewed, then fitting a decent car type relay between switch and pump is a good preventative measure.
  10. What's wrong with the hose, is it permeating?
  11. One of these and a 100W '12V' panel will do useful bit of batt topping up, say about 20Ah/day in summer. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/EPSolar-10A-LandStar-PWM-Solar-PV-Regulator-Charge-Controller-12V-24V-/282178038084 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/EPsolar-LandStar-LS1024B-PWM-Solar-Battery-Charge-Controller-10A-12-24V-/251654550694 That said fully charged sealed leisures should hold their charge fine for some months if properly isolated from any loads, question as said is whether they're fully charged on returning to the mooring.
  12. The 'amps divided by three' rule of thumb (to get mm2) will largely take care of that. For most normal circuits on a 12V boat, A/3 will allow for up to 5m separation between equipment and batts, above that just increase the mm2 pro rata.
  13. The ratings can be somewhat optimistic, but it should barely heat up running 12W of LEDs. ISTR the PCB is some sort of aluminium (presumably with an insulating layer!), that might help with RFI. Maybe try one out? Another was is to get creative with some warm white LED strip as it's easy to run off 12V and do dimming. Eg this sort of thing if the loss of a little ceiling height at the edges is OK: https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=lighting+false+pelmet+light&num=100&tbm=isch Or retrofit the strip into some nice fittings.
  14. Another alternative, most of the mains LEDs work at 110V to 240V, so just buy a small 110V inverter and dedicate it for the mains lighting: http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=110v+inverter&_sacat=0 110V means if you drill through a cable and the RCD protection is a bit lacking, it's less likely to give a fatal shock (110V is used on building sites for this reason) The real el cheapo inverters may have issues with fan noise and reliability, so best run at 50% of max power, somewhere out of earshot, and securely mounted away from flammables!!!
  15. Just spotted this, might be a winner if the fittings are OK with 300mA: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Waterproof-AC-DC-12V-24V-Transformer-F-4W-5W-6W-7W-8W-9W-4-9X1W-Power-LED-Driver-/231656443419 Might be worth getting one for a try out, would need one for each fitting but they're cheap enough.