Canal World

Join us absolutely Free in just two minutes to gain access to all our features. Once registered, you will be able to submit new content and get answers to your all your canal & boating questions all for absolutely Free!

smileypete

Member
  • Content count

    6,618
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    4

smileypete last won the day on November 24 2014

smileypete had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

186 Good

About smileypete

Recent Profile Visitors

12,213 profile views
  1. I am sure Vetus are aware of the phenomenom of changing battery voltage. I thought everyone on here religiously recharged their batt as soon as the S****gauge read 49.99999% ?
  2. Would have thought a premium mfr should know their product well enough. At the end of the day it comes down to cost/benefit, not much point spending ££££ for little or no benefit. A good wiring design can save ££££ and make changes easier, but it sounds like the OP is committed with the existing premade loom.
  3. They should specify a max distance for the 6mm in the instructions, if not why not call Vetus and get their take on it, would be interesting to know....
  4. Frame genny will likely have very poor regulation and may blow up an electronic multistage charger. ISTR Screwfix do a little 700W Impax inverter genny for £200ish, should run a small cheap 20A charger OK: http://www.screwfix.com/p/impax-im800i-700w-inverter-generator-230v/15760 Here's a typical inexpensive 20A charger: https://electroquestuk.com/chargers/leisure-battery-chargers-marine-battery-chargers/fully-automatic-marine-leisure-battery-charger-12v-20a With solar it won't be needed til late autumn anyway. That genny/charger combo should cover power use from some LED lights, water pump, phone charger and modest lappie use. If you're London based it'd be well worth checking out the London Boaters facebook page, see what other people run for a similar sized boat.
  5. Pity Bimble don't do the Tracer/EPEver A series, eg 3210A
  6. Why not try a sample of the worst/most inconvenient leaks, then weigh up the effort and results against complete renewal? Epoxy needs dry wood really but the 5200 and ali tape thing should be OK to do in a dryish spell, maybe wicks, screwfix, toolstation do a polyurethane sealant (moisture cure), they do gutter sealant.
  7. Also a google turns up this topic: Good to know, seems common sense to me. I remember the howls of anguish from certain quarters when I suggesting using 10mm x 0.7mm with the metal inserts sold by BES. Also wonder what the standard is if any for domestic oil, as any leak however tiny makes a mess, if a compression joint can be made oil tight then it's almost certainly gas tight at a few millibar.
  8. 5/16 is nigh on 8mm, so a 3/8 to 5/16 imperial reducing compression could be used (wade 4048/5) If you need to buy more 8mm tube you'll probably struggle to find it in the required thickness of 0.8mm or more, but again 5/16th tube can be substituted and is available in 20SWG thickness/0.9mm which is plenty. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Copper-pipe-soft-annealed-1m-length-x-20-gauge-choose-diameter-M2x-M-/112197212200 Nevertheless the gas bod should ideally source all the correct bits (even if you buy and supply them to his requirements), that way if there's issues down the responsibility is all his and there's no wriggle room. ETA:
  9. Might not be a bad idea to use thin marine ply skin IMO. Takes paint and sealant well, easy to cut, work, bend, fill, repair etc. And in extremis it's somewhat permeable to moisture. Also helps to backprime the hidden faces of the T&G/timbers, doubt this was done even in the old days, they didn't want to do themselves out of repeat business... External cracks where timbers meet may well be avoided with adequate expansion joints filled with modern goop.
  10. 3M 5200 (also Marnineflex) is another goop for bedding screws, being polyurethane based it's moisture cure so won't mind the wood being a little damp. If the roof is smooth enough, another fix is to lay a strip of aluminium tape (proper stuff, NOT 'duct tape') over the screw heads and burnish it down with a cloth, after a couple of coats of paint it'll be hardly noticeable.
  11. Is the oven fixed too? Would be interesting to know why the gas bod used braided hose, possibly access was a big issue?
  12. To add to the suggestions try fresh fuel if the existing has been standing around for long. A way to confirm the genny is at fault could be to try running a 1500W heater (just under the max 1600W load.) If the charger is running near max output eg 70A, some chargers need a much bigger geny due to 'poor power factor' but that doesn't sound like the case here.
  13. Could put the eber on the engine side, then use 1 coil for engine (less 'overcooling') and both coils for eber, plus a couple of non return valves to stop backflow through eber or engine. Saves having a separate coolant circuit for the eber, which would need header tank or expansion vessel. I guess the eber is in the engine room/bay already. Sometimes simplicity and effectiveness don't go together... but complexity doesn't guarantee effectiveness either.
  14. With my cynical hat on I wonder if trusts in the home counties somehow get more funding per capita than trusts in the north of england.
  15. Apparently the Department of Health was instructed to take 1bn out of the capital expenditure budgets to put towards day to day running costs: https://www.theguardian.com/society/2016/nov/22/nhs-financial-problems-endemic-and-no-longer-sustainable-national-audit-office-deficit You can bet the spying agencies get all the cash they ask for!