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About jonesthenuke

  • Birthday 19/01/59

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    Gardner 3LW

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  1. Yes slacken nut and adjust with lever to get required tension see attached timing chain.pdf
  2. this may help gardner timing chain.pdf
  3. Great. Thanks PS I feel much less stupid now that I know I have to drill a hole to get to the adjuster. What is that about???????
  4. Great, I have looked before but did not think of moving the handle around (D'Oh!) Thanks
  5. We have a 58' boat, a Gardner 3lW, 1.5:1 PRM500 and a 22x17 3 bladed prop. Hope this helps.
  6. IIRC a previous thread on this type of problem had somebody suggesting contacting a local diving club as they may like the challenge of finding it. You never know. Replacing it will be a challenge as I would think you will need t get boat out of the water.
  7. Can anyone advise me on this? Our boat has a Morse/Ultraflex B85 single lever engine control. At low to mid range throttle conditions it tends to slowly move back to a lower throttle setting. As this is the normal throttle position for canal cruising its getting irritating holding it in the desired position. Looking at adverts for this control it suggests it has an adjustable brake but I have no instruction manual and cannot see how to adjust it (if indeed its possible). I have tried looking at the manufacturers website and all it says is "Provided with a brake tension release system adjustable from outside" . I have also been unable to locate a manual or instructions for download. ???? Thanks Chris
  8. Can you see any leaks? What about the breather, any fumes from there?
  9. Problem solved they are now back in stock at the jabsco shop. This surprised me as I have looked multiple times only to find them out of stock. Thanks to this forum I looked again. I have bought four. if the failure rate remains the same I will swap to a Whale pump, but this is irritating as the Jabsco should last longer than it does. I am also considering putting some mastic around the valve when I next install one as they seem to fail in the same place and I guess they are overstressed. Thanks for the help with this
  10. Thanks Tony I had not seen that site.
  11. We have a Jabsco 50880 as a shower drain pump. Its a diaphragm pump and generally works very well, but I have now had the inlet valve fail twice in a year. The failure is a split in the rubber around part of the lip at the circular end. This seems a short service life as we only use the boat for holidays, so its not much use in that time. Perhaps this is why they are called Joker valves? I can only locate spares as part of a spares kit at about £20. Jabsco list just the valve at approx £2 but I cannot find a stockist. As I bought a spares kit last year to get just a valve (I did not change the diaphragm) I would rather buy just the valves. Does anyone know of a stockist ? Thanks
  12. What temperature is the top of the engine at? It may well still be warming up and recirculating via the short pie back to the pump. As PeterG has said, warming up at low revs will take a long time. Is the recirc line back to the pump warmer than the feed line to the skin tanks?
  13. Looks like you need some wire cutters. I am darn sarf so cannot bring you some, but is anyone on here local and could deliver some to you?
  14. I had one of those. Mine was not very robust and after a few uses I chucked it. In any case to change the 15-20 litres of of oil in the engine requires filling and decanting the vacuum tank several times. I Understand the PELA pumps are better but a large one seems to be approx £90? Its easier to use the installed hand pump straight into an empty 25l container so that it can be taken off the boat and disposed of in one go. This takes approx 10 minutes so is an electric pump worthwhile?
  15. Dowty washers may be posh but they also work very well and can seal on mildly worn faces. I abandoned copper washers long ago.