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gbclive

Member
  • Content count

    80
  • Joined

  • Last visited

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6 Followers

About gbclive

  • Birthday 02/06/55

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Warlingham, Surrey.
  • Interests
    Kelvin engines

Previous Fields

  • Occupation
    Pilot
  • Boat Name
    Duke
  • Boat Location
    K&A for the summer - Bristol and back
  1. That does make sense - in which case my baby J would need less oil? So perhaps my dipstick is correct afterall and it's the generic J manual that's wrong in my case to suggest 10 pints? Are all J series dipsticks identical regardless of the number of cylinders? How much oil do other J2 owners require to reach full on the dipstick? Thanks. So is that smoke out of the exhaust or smoke out of the breather? I guess the breather seems more likely - even over filled I don't see how an inch or two extra well below the crankshaft would end up getting burnt. However, I'm still on a steep learning curve - but thanks to this wonderful place and it's people, at least I'm able to learn :-) Cheers. Clive.
  2. Thanks - that's clear. Actualy my dipstick does have "Danger" above the full mark as well as below the low point - just not very clear in the pic. So.......... that leaves me pondering that if my J2 dipstick matches yours - how come I only need 7 pints to reach the full graduation? That's a large discrepancy as a further 3 pints would put me well above the "full" indication. When changing the oil I do wait a while for all of the oil to drain down into the sump, then mop out. I've also checked I'm using imperial pints At least I now know that I am about 19mm deeper than the minimum when at minimum on my dipstick, so have not been depriving the engine of oil. Can anyone think of an explanation? Cheers, Clive.
  3. Thanks BEngo - with "full" indicated on the dipstick, I have about 10mm above the top of the hex nut or 22mm above the top of the strainer casing. Which does the 3mm refer to please? Pics of half empty sump and dipstick attached. Thanks again for this very helpful information. Clive.
  4. Thanks Dave - nice to now understand the reason. The SAE 30 Rock Oil I use is labled API SF/CC, so that's reassured me that it's a reasonable choice.
  5. Thanks - that's most helpful.
  6. Hi Stuart, Hope you are all well? From some notes made last time I changed the reverse oil, 6th imp gallon = 1.33 pints = 0.63L = 630 ml. I use the same oil that I use for the engine as recommended by Phil Trotter: Rock Oil Viscol Diesel 30 25 Litre Drum WO268067 However, I'm interested in what others use. Ref your engine sump dipstick – if you like I’ll photograph my J2 one against a scale next time I’m on the boat – in 2 weeks? However, from the J series manual it should hold 1.25 imp gal = 10 pints but I indicate full with only 7 pints, so perhaps my dipstick is the wrong one? Any thoughts anyone? Cheers for now Stuart, Clive.
  7. Also a couple of options from Bimble: http://www.bimblesolar.com/index.php?route=product/search&search=Heater
  8. The nearest I've got to that experience was a visit to Andy and John at Seaward in Glasgow to collect some items for our J2. Amazing Aladdin's cave of Kelvin "stuff" although I found it can take them months to find something they think they may have! I got into trouble at Glasgow airport on the way home for carrying the cylinder liners in my hand baggage. Security had a sense of humour failure and made me stand in a glass walled "sniffer" cubical as a punishment😏
  9. Just read an article about the Kelvin Aqueduct (latest Towpath Talk, page 97). So it seems that Kelvin is named after the River Kelvin in Glasgow? As an obsessive Kelvin addict, I had no idea 😏
  10. I've just booked Roger, so he is still business.
  11. Last summer we cruised our NB back from Gloucester to the Wey, a cracking voyage. However, we noticed that some water refills were horrible with a strong chemical taste and smell and at other places the water was sweet. We got into the regime of tasting before contaminating our tank with inferior water. The problem caused much angst and prompted us to keep a record with the intention to name and shame here the worst boat yards, hire companies and general water points. We really were not impressed! The galley was cluttered up with 5L containers of good water to see us through hostile territory. Long story short - 6 months and 237 miles later, after reaching our winter mooring and finding that the water on one side of the marina was pants whilst on the other it was good - it FINALLY dawned on me that the problem was in fact our own shiny new long yellow hose! Sometimes we had used a fixed hose, sometimes an old short tatty hose that came with the boat and sometime our long yellow hose. Now replaced it with a blue "food safe" hose and suddenly the water is always nice!😏
  12. Last year I spent a considerable time trying to source some LED downlights for a re-fit of our NB.I wanted 12 volt warm LEDs with a beam effect and light similar to halogens with their conical reflectors, for pools of light rather than the flat LED lighting effect that is more common. Also had to be shallow mounting depth and dimable. I eventually made contact with Chris Horridge at downlightsdirect.co.uk who suggested these 12 volt constant voltage LED downlighters by the Swedish company Malmbergs. https://www.downlightsdirect.co.uk/miniature-12v-downlight-malmbergs.html#description They were a new design, the earlier versions were a constant amperage design which were not as simple to dim and required a compatible driver. The only slight downsides for me were: ▪️A DC to DC stabiliser is recommended (for the greater than 12 volts when the batteries are being charged). This ups the cost and complexity slightly. ▪️Perhaps not the cheapest LEDs available. ▪️There are brighter lights available if that is a priority. ▪️Bulb not replaceable, but I suspect they will outlast me! Specification: Mounting depth: 30mm (unusually shallow for a fitting with a conical reflector) Wattage: 3W Beam angle: 45 degrees (unusual for shallow 12 volt LEDs) Colour temperature: 2700K extra warm white. Finishes: White or satin chrome (sorry Robbo - not stainless) IP Rating: IP44 splash proof Lumens: 227 Lumens CRI: 83 (sorry Robbo - less than 90) Guarantee: 5 years A model with a tilting mechanism is also available. I control (dim) some that are under cupboards with a very cheap and simple PRM (pulse width modulation) dimmer, similar to this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12-Volt-8-Amp-For-LED-Lights-Strips-PWM-Dimming-Controller-DIMMER-/191740707920?hash=item2ca4a30450:g:HfkAAOSwsFpWS-tI Personally, I'm very pleased with the warm atmospheric result and would recommend Chris for his excellent advice and service. There was nothing else at the time that came close to meeting my requirements.
  13. Thanks for the tip on degreasing.Also, would you advise only tightening down loosely until the sikaflex has got off, or tighten down hard straight away? Thanks.
  14. Last year I decided to paint over the internal plywood cabin sides above the gunwall which had previously been scumbled including a varnish layer.We used ZinsserBIN Primer-Sealer & Stain Killer.Paint went on OK and wood grain shows through nicely.So far no bleeding.Quote from advert:B-I-N Primer-Sealer: - is the ultimate shellac-based primer, sealer and stain killer. It is perfect for use on interior surfaces and spot priming of exterior surfaces.B-I-N offers unparalleled adhesion to glossy surfaces including glass without the need for scuff sanding it also blocks stubborn and persistent stains. The high adhesion shellac formula seals porous surfaces with excellent enamel holdout, even sealing bleeding knots and sap streaks.
  15. Thanks for the advice Dave, Chilled out nicely this afternoon on the amazingly beautiful Thames. Blue skies, a wafting breeze and now no worries about my Kelvin😎 Curry and beer sorted for this evening. Can life get much better?