Mike at Mayroyd

I am going to install calcium silicate fire heat protecting board behind my solid fuel stove with an air gap. What's the best way to finish the surface of the board. Tiles seem the most popular. Anyone with experience of using anything else? Thank you

Like a lot of people with poor hearing it's the high frequencies that I can't hear so something with a range of frequencies would be better - provided it's not a klaxon.

Thank you for your prompt replies. The Bizzard treatment worked.

I have adjusted the stern gland so I get about a drip a minute when the shaft is turning and a very infrequent drip when it is stopped. I have filled the greaser with fresh grease but when I turn it it is very stiff and eventually grease oozes out of the threads at the bottom of the greaser. Is there a way of clearing this without removing and replacing the packing? Thank you

Thank you all for your excellent and pertinent advice. Yes, its an A217 type and I'll check the size of the cable from the alternator

Thank you. Pulley on new alternator is smaller

I have a BMC 1500 Tempest. I have replaced the original 35 amp alternator with a 55 amp one and have run out of adjustment for the drive belt and will buy a shorter one. The one that is fitted has teeth, is this usual? The pulleys are a smooth V profile

The external part of the heater exhaust for my Rinnai 58E is 24 inches. The manual says nothing about flue length. Can I replace it with a 12 inch cowl which I've seen in the chandlers? Thanks in advance for your advice.

Happy to help

I want to use this as a cover for the engine hole on my cruiser stern narrowboat I have previously used exterior grade 18mm ply. Although I have seen hexagrip used for engine covers and for seating and steps the manufactures don't recommend it for external use. Have you used it and have you found it to be weatherproof? Thanks in advance

I'm happy to volunteer

In the topic "Piper narrowboat ramming a lock gate" mayalid made the very good comment that there are reasonable ways to get a level. As a newcomer I would welcome advice on how people have dealt with this problem.

I am replacing my Rule "sump pump in a leaky lunch box" with a whale gulper. The power cables are difficult to access so I'm looking for a switch that can be operated with a wet hand or foot rather than a ceiling cord pull type. What have you used or can recommend?

Tony Brooks in post #29 referred to a "hidden oil strainer and jet" on BMC engines. Whereabouts on the engine is it?

I'm on the Rochdale. Mike Boulton of Blue Star Surveys http://www.bluestarsurveys.co.uk/ was recommended by neighbours and did mine last April.

Start from where you are... How do you live now and how much does it cost? Make a detailed list of what is essential for you and your child and what's nice to have. Accept it's a process that will take time... You will need to change habits and learn skills. Accept that this won't happen overnight Share your time and resources... Buy in bulk with like minded friends. Swap skills. Check that you are enjoying it... And how will you develop this over the next several years?

My home is a 40ft narrowboat and I'm looking for a comfortable chair. It seems like almost everyone uses those recliner swivel armchairs. I guess that they are the best solution. Anyone with recommendations for alternatives?

That's a "grate" idea. I'll try that, thank you

Same stove, same sized boat and same problem. I use firelighters and kindling to start. When roaring add a large amount of smokeless all at once. This always works but a couple of hours later it's too hot. Anybody with any experience of adding firebricks to reduce the volume of the grate - would that work?

I want to replace the engine starting battery for my BMC 1.5 and would like some advice please - What "cold cranking" rating is suitable. - Would a dedicated solar panel be a sensible way to keep it charged up and what size panel would I need. Thanks in advance

"Voyage" is a 40 ft cruiser stern from 1980. Hadn't been used for a couple of years when I bought it. Compared to other narrowboats the rudder is hard to move. No grinding or vibration just seems heavy. A neighbour with a 60 ft trad stern says it's heavier than his rudder and has suggested checking the bearings. There is no obvious bearing housing - it looks like this There's no obvious way of removing the white plastic disc. Any suggestions? or any other possible causes of a heavy rudder?

At the moment this sits in the corner, taking up valuable floor space. Any advice on whether I can mount it next to the water tank under the foredeck. Or, any reason why I cant mount it vertically? Thank you

Was this the thread? It showed aluminium edging LInk

Is it worth using Vactan before applying Johnstones Smooth Metal paint? Or should I accept its claim to apply directly to rusted surfaces.