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About Psycloud

  • Birthday 27/04/68

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  • Boat Name
    Wet 'n' Wild
  • Boat Location
    Grand Union (Willowbridge Marina)
  1. My Mum had a really bad mole problem (over 50 mole hills in the garden) for a number of years, the mole catcher only caught one and she tried many other way to get rid of them to no avail. She heard that moth balls work well but couldn't find any "old school" ones. I did locate some on eBay and the moles were gone within a few days and 6 months later not a single mole hill
  2. It wouldn't have thought the poll was created with the aim of creating division or pigeon holing people. I'm also curious to know for no other reason than being curious
  3. Does anyone know if there is a 2nd hand demand for old single glazed narrow boat windows? You might need to market them slightly better
  4. Sorry, I should have mentioned we have a cap and dodger over the stern at all times and the deck boards remain dry even when there is damp in the bilge.
  5. Did you ever find the cause/cure? I've removed about 30 ltrs of water from my cruiser stern engine bay. there was 2" in the bilges either side of the engine, and it turns out the what I thought was oil under the engine is in fact a lot of water (again 2" deep) with a fine layer of oil on top - the bilge under the engine is completely separate from the side bilges so a domestic water leak could not get into this space. I've dried/cleaned it all out and since the weekend have had no water appear. We also have an Eberspacher D5W in this bay which has been used daily over the winter and I think this is likely the cause, heating the air inside the bay on very cold mornings for 2 hrs (and evenings), then when that air cools it condenses on the inside of the steel. Other possibilities: - water from the heating system. Unlikely as no loss of water from the closed circuit. - water from the engine. Unlikely as I have only needed to put 1/2 ltr into the engine in the last 6 months. - water from domestic supply. As above, unlikely as it would not be able to deposit exactly the same 2" depth of water in the engine area. - Calorifier leak. This is sat in one of the side bilges but again water cannot get into the engine bilge - Stern gland. This barely drips (currently 1 teaspoon a week). Other than the above I'm stumped. I'm going to repaint the bay shortly and also lay absorbent mats about the bay for a few months and check daily to see what, if anything is dripping.
  6. Time to get down the engine bay again. A few years ago I had a go at it using a wirebrush wheel in a drill then treating with an epoxy mastic. Unfortunately this is now flaking off so I'm going to remove some of the things that made it awkward last time (calorifier which is sat on the baseplate, eberspacher etc) and use a flap wheel in an angle grinder to get the worse of the paint and rust off, then clean it and give it a coat of Aquasteel. I will then use a primer but cannot decide between Bonda Primer, Rustoleum or Owatrol CIP. Has anyone long term experience with 1 or more of these, especially if you have had chance to compare? I will be finishing the job with 2 coats of white Danboline. Thanks David
  7. That's all he said I'm afraid. It was Tony Tucker who said it.
  8. I had the same setup but when I had her surveyed last year I was told to remove the ones off the side as too many anodes turn the boat into a giant battery. I removed one off each side.
  9. I doubt it will be covered, and as it wasn't massively expensive we're probably better off trying to repair then taking a hit if it doesn't work. Our house is rented out and has landlord insurance, not private contents. Hey ho - live and learn, live and learn. OK - I'll give it a go with DI water - thanks.
  10. It wasn't massively expensive - £250, but I can't really afford a new one right now. In some ways I'm pleased it was only a cheap one as I'd have cried if it were £500+ It's worth having a pop if I can resolder the obvious components for £10. We'd only really used the thing in anger for about 2 weeks whilst out travelling - most the time it sits around waiting for our next trip out. Hmmmm - well she wouldn't let me have a dishwasher on the boat so I guess that's out the question for now
  11. Thank you - I initially couldn't see the FT in the part number hence why my searching failed. I have now ordered some. I will give the board a good brush, thankfully there wasn't too much ingress so with any luck it may be salvageable.
  12. Happy for a Mod to rename this to "overflowing". Yes I am aware they need to be emptied but this is the first time I've ever had one overflow so it's not uncommon to just deal with them when the crystals have disappeared. On this occasion I had forgotten about this one - an expensive mistake possibly No leak from above. The cupboard contains clothing and it was all dry. The container was below the clothing. I think it may be a case of the water capacity being too small for the amount of crystals provided.
  13. A few weeks ago our inverter started whistling like a boiling kettle. It wasn't switched on (as we are on landline) but was connected the 12v system as per normal. I disconnected the inverter and discovered it was wet - upon further investigation it turned out that a moisture absorber in the cupboard above the one the inverter lives in had overflowed. There were still crystals in the top section but the water container was completely full so it seems it can absorb more than it can hold. It is similar to the one pictured below.... I have opened up the inverter and had a look and can see 2 resistors that have corroded and a transistor that has gone pop. I have cleaned out all the slimy water (contaminated with calcium chloride) which had managed to get inside and think I could make an attempt at replacing the resistors without too much trouble (they are pennies on eBay) however I'm unsure where to get a similar transistor as Google doesn't help with any of the numbers stamped on it (well it's neighbour). Can anyone please help identify a suitable replacement transistor? Many thanks David
  14. A while back we had a leak in the silencer that was filling the engine bay with exhaust, this in turn was entering the engine and slowly choking it which cause more black smoke until the engine completely stopped - bit of a vicious circle. Patched the hole and the problem went away.
  15. Gas ovens can be a bit of a dark art - we find that whatever the recommended cooking time/temperature is, add an extra gas mark and an extra 15 minutes. Once you get to know your oven it's not actually that bad