The Construct

My brief intro does not explain the ins and outs, you can find more detail in the PDF but I'm not trying to measure the temperature of the stove, I'm interested in the fabric around it, Ive seen some images where the hull lining & fire board is badly charred, so I am trying to measure that temperature, I expect it to be less than 60degC. I will embed my sensors probably between the tiles (just leave a bit of grout out) and also measure the temperature of the air space behind. I agree with nicknorman, 'one-wire' is a little misleading but its what they call it, I just went along with it, I suppose its one cable and I use a 3 core. The smart thing is each sensor has a unique address, so they can be connected to the same wire. I could have used one sensor on different inputs but that would have meant 5 cables

I've just prototyped a temperature monitor for a solid fuel stove installation & thought I would share it here. I found some tiny temperature sensors, so controlling the sensors and LCD using an arduino (open source controller). I have published my findings on my blog http://www.mysilverbullet.org & I hope some of you folks may find it interesting and useful, theres a pdf on my blog you can download. I must admit I am not an expert with the arduino, I have just researched a few ideas on the web and utilised some stuff I found, I suppose thats the great thing about an open-source controller & this democratic world wide web. Hope you enjoy

Sorry to disappoint you but I wasn't going with the 12v tap and if you took the time to read my comments, the evidence is there - looks like you jumped to the wrong conclusion - again! Anyway, I won't be bullied in the playground, its all yours I'm out of here Theres a lot of good knowledge on this site, but its all rather distasteful

Thanks for that and the link looks an interesting site. ... and use dc/dc converters where needed. Yes I agree, however, the 1 watt load is minuscule, fictitious and only used to help me gain an 'understanding' Yes I think that would be the way I would go, keep the power unit standard. thanks for all your input

Thanks for the input, no its not real - yet! I posted because there seems to be a wide range of views and installations, and its never as simple as it seems! I was thinking of going 24v domestic distribution (& 230v AC Inverter/ maybe generator), the discussion went around EMC and I was then very interested in a suggestion of a 12v tapping, and more interested in followup comments. So yes, I am investing some time to try and increase my understanding of how you put it 'whats really going on'. I'm sure the optimum design is out there, and I'm just trying to find out what it is - before I do my 'Power Audit' hope this makes sense

Yes I know, I didn't mention the voltage because this is about a 24V (edit) battery bank (end of edit) and a 12V tap. I am happy to concede your point but it doesn't make too much different to the math and the concluding question "Does such a minuscule load (from a 12V battery in a 24V bank) have such a "massive" effect on the life of the bank?" I'm interested in the answer because it could be significant

I am trying to understand the context of this fact: If I have a battery bank of say 4 x 110AH 12V batteries and I connect them two in series to give me 24V and then parallel them up then the whole battery bank is 4 x 110AH = 440 AH Now you say a 'miniscule load' of say 0.005% of the battery bank size. 0.005% of 440 AH is 0.22AH. and if I run something for 15 mins, that is equal to 0.055A (15mins/60mins x 0.22) from the battery bank. For a 12V load that is around 0.66VA so that rules out most things such as pumps, even LED lamps are 2W minimum! Now you say connecting such a load will <b>massively</b> reduce the bank life: if a battery bank is good for say 550 discharge/charge cycles, are you suggesting massively means 10% to 50% or what? In conclusion and in live aboard context, you are saying the battery may need replacing say every 2 years (rather than 4 years) due to a 12V tap supplying a 1W load thats on every 15 minutes. I'm trying to get my head around this, because if what you are saying is correct, then 12V taps look a costly option rather than an elegant solution!

It looks like a good solution, thanks for that. Ive done a quick Google on pumps & the 24V version appears to be 10-15% more cost than the 12V version - no great shakes!

No I haven't done the investment analysis but I take your point about losses. As far as EMC issues are concerned, I thought manufacturers had a requirement to ensure their kit was within spec - compatibility, the clue is in the acronym. I'm getting the idea that it will be best to stick with a standard arrangement i.e. 12V and sling loads of copper at the situation i.e. I suppose its a case of "if it aint broke then don't fix it" thats what I was thinking! I guess you are right, its what Gibbo said earlier, it will come down to whats available in the marketplace and of course at what price, and has little to do with the best technically optimum solution.

I didn't make myself clear, I was thinking about connecting the batteries in series (say 24v (or more now 36v has been mentioned)) and supplying lighting etc throughout the boat. Where a socket is needed for an appliance, fridge or TV or whatever, stick a DC/DC converter to get down to 12V. It would mean less copper installed, it may mean lower losses (for a specific cost) and may have an effect on the efficiency of the 'leisure batteries'. My canvas is blank at the moment so I am just wondering if the optimum has already been achieved or whether there is a bit in it for improvement. Its interesting to read your posts, theres a lot going on in the automotive industries which I didn't (don't) know about, so thanks for all the replies, and please keep 'em coming.

just thinking, if the forward/reverse had a servo with radio control, I guess this would revolutionise single handed locking!

Leaving the engine electrics alone, I was wondering about the 12V distribution and the inherent volt drop issues. But some are 24V now, I didn't know this. All the consumer stuff could be supplied via DC/DC converter whilst distributing a higher voltage than 12Vdc, but I don't know how practical this is. Why would 48V be a problem, most boats have 240V on them?

This has probably been asked loads of times but why is 12V chosen for narrowboat lighting, fans etc? The batteries are usually at one end so long runs are inevitable creating volt drop problems. So why not 24V or say 48V. I'd be interested in your views

Ive been doing some similar research recently, I have an old map (Nicholsons) that shows the Ouse, upstream from York has a 57' length limit. I have no local knowledge so further investigation needed.

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