EdHopwood

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  • Content count

    9
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About EdHopwood

  • Rank
    Junior Member
  • Birthday

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    United Kingdom
  • Interests
    Now only boat work it seems but i was once a musician :)

Previous Fields

  • Occupation
    artist
  • Boat Name
    Brentonian
  • Boat Location
    Brentford
  1. Hi Folks, I'm about to embark on fitting new windows into my widebeam as the old ones are neglected and barely functioning. As I'm a joiner by trade I thought I'd make full hopper windows( double Glazed) sit them in flush to the outside edge and bridge the gap with Anodised Aluminium section sealed with silicone. Doe's anyone think this is a bad idea? the only issue I have is not being able to find aluminium section for the 90 degree bends at the bottom corners of each window so I may have to grind them out square. I'm concerned the windows will dodgy with no rounded corners but struggling to accommodate them whilst having a good seal at the bottoms. I also thought of going dutch barge style and reccessing them back in a little but then I'll still have the weatherproofing problem at the bottom. You may say just buy Aluminium ones of course but don't really have 2 grand to spare Ed
  2. Hi, thanks for your swift response! she was built in 1988 as a nigerian river barge that didn't get bought and sat on the canal. As far as I'm aware she's never been out of the water since. Actually the waterline doesn't look too bad but theres certainly a lot of rust on one side(the exposed side to the canal) and I suppose I wont really know how deep the rust is till I get scraping! In that case do you think I need to get rid of every trace of rust, grind a section, paint a section with quick drying paint before the tide comes in?( sounds like a challenge ) I guess i have the problem of not mixing too much epoxy paint at one time, also is it ok to put the paint on in stages or would you normally bang on as much as possible but then the boat would normally be dry docked anyway probably. One advantage is I do have a welder next door if the need arises!! thanks for your help Ed
  3. Good morning all, more tedious questions for you ever helpful people if anyone would be so kind as to help. So my recently purchased boat it seems was last painted in 1988!! I've had a fun 3 weeks scraping and painting the inside which is starting to look a lot better giving me a much needed morale boost! It's now time for the outside. Blacking and a base coat for the rest, I have to do everything here on the river (tidal) and will not be getting her shot blasted although this seems like the way forward. In terms of gear, I have a diesel powered Pressure washer at my disposal, numerous sanders, grinders and a fair amount of time on my hands! Is the best way 1: to go all out and try to remove all the old paint or 2 :take off what I can and Prime all bare steel followed by Blacking lower down then undercoats and gloss higher up? I want the best possible finish I can get above the waterline naturally! I'm presuming the old hull blacking paint will be fairly hard and messy to remove. many thanks Ed
  4. Just been researching vactan, maybe that's the way forward. Do I just use standard metal paint after that as the vactan eliminates the need for the Zinc Oxide paint though?
  5. Thanks for all your quick responses. Much appreciated for a woodworker like myself who's trying his luck with steel! I'm a bit confused though, I've been told if you pressure wash the loose rust off then the paint will deal with the rest and if it blisters up you just keep giving it the same treatment. is this the case or am I just covering up rust that will continue to eat away at the steel? I also don't really want to do it twice. Are the alternatives to shot blast(not really an option) or try and grind everything back to bare steel? (angle grinder with wire brush??) cheers Ed
  6. hello there, here's my second question for any of you kind people who'd like to help after the great help I recieved last time. So i've scraped all the rust from the inside of my Hull and I'm ready to paint. Iv'e started to pressure wash an area on my neighbours advice then suck the water out. Very messy but I needed a shower anyway:) On a serious note though, is this the best way to get rid of the rust? Do I know just paint with Zinc Oxide paint? kind regards Ed
  7. Thanks for the fast responses, I appreciate the help! I'm having a big scrape mission today so will see how it goes! Kind regards ed
  8. hello folks, I've recently purchased a widebeam boat built in 1988, it's a half finished project that was abandoned some years ago and she's been sitting in the canal for at least 15 years in one spot. She's now on the tidal Thames so I've been able to have a good hull inspection. It seems the outside and waterline looks good with very little pitting. However on the inside where water has sat there is a large patch 8 by 4 ft approx of rust that at it's thickest is around 6-7mm and 2 of the struts/beams have rusted considerably. Is it possible get rid of all the rust and overplate this from the inside or is it always wise to go from the outside? (the base plate is 6mmm thick by the way) As I'm fairly new to the world of boating i'd really appreciate any one's advice on this matter? many thanks Ed