NMEA

I often have a bit of a chuckle at some of these Webasto threads. The Webasto TTC only runs at a maximum of 72 degrees Centigrade, the ignition point of even pine is 180, we mount them on wood all the time without issues, this low temperature is one of the reasons they don't work well with blower boxes, the new replacement model (Eco 5.0) runs ten degrees hotter to enable them to use hot air blowers too. If you are concerned (which you really needn't be) then use slightly longer screws on the H bracket, another method is to mount the whole setup on an aluminium plate and then mount that to the surface al la Mikuni MX 40. Cut a 75mm dia hole in the cladding where the exhaust skin fitting exits and lag the area well though. Most of this info is in the marine install instructions that come with the kit anyway so have a good read of that.

Obviously the best is the Webasto ones we use but this works, not with the latest heaters but for the Thermo Top C will work perfectly well enough. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/202422214916

The ECU is different to allow lower voltage operation, the kit also has a proper marine exhaust system, correct length loom and many other bits to ensure BSS compliance, but most importantly if you fit a standard heater to a boat you will not get the three year warranty and may not even have any warranty at all.

Bit early to make any informed comment yet Nick, However the Evo has been used in vehicles for a long time now without major issues, I am fitting one to my New Shogun and am not concerned. If you are putting six decent sized rads in a cabin and want hot water also I would be looking at a Kabola Compact 7 Combi to be honest.

My last boat was fly by wire from new but reto fitting the control systems would be eye wateringly expensive, especially if not already fitted with hydraulic steering. Just a suggestion but have you considered a front camera and a large daylight viewable screen? that is used on large ships and very effective, also a cheaper and transferable solution.

Do you mean a Pro 50 vehicle unit or a pro 50 water station, the Water station is the only one approved for marine use and available in 24v only? Personally I would go pressurised, we fit almost exclusively these days, never fit thermostatic valves as the induce the boiler to cycle, not a good thing, the best thing you can do is have a good read of the Webasto marine install manual, it will answer all your questions and some you may not even have thought of yet. If you drop an email to ecmhe@talktalk.net I will ping you back a copy.

Good news for others fitting units in the future, if a TTC is flattening your batteries then I think you need to look at either your charging regime of battery bank, over a two hour period a TTC should use less than 3.5ah.

The TTC has only two heat levels so your pump speed reduction indicates a reduction to half heat. Good news is the new Thermo EVO is now available, it is fully modulated just like the air heaters so should go a long way to stop this happening, only in 24v at the moment though.

See my reply to your PM.

Looks like it needs a visit then, which marina are you in?

I am Mikuni trained in London, what is the issue, I may be able to help without incurring expense, parts are getting scarce for them now.

I think people get a little confused about what antifreeze is, briefly antifreeze is a mixture of Glycol and additives which include inhibitor, the inhibitor adds nothing to frost protection but is essential to help prevent internal corrosion of the system parts including boiler and radiators. Glycol maintains its frost protection for some considerable time, but inhibitors become less effective and therefore many people change their antifreeze at regular intervals which is a way of replenishing the corrosion protection but does mean you are throwing away perfectly good glycol which is also quite toxic to the environment. The great thing about using an antifreeze like the Flomasta one, or indeed any other that you can source a compatible inhibitor for is you keep the glycol content and top up the corrosion inhibitor, cheaper and better for the environment.

All our installs are down south so -11 is fine for us, you could increase the concentration to say 33% for more protection but not too much as it then affects the efficiency of heat transfer, not usually a real issue as the rads on many installs are well below the hearer capability anyway. I see little point in removing the heater unit for the winter really, other than you could use the opportunity to clean it out.

We use Flomasta inhibited central heating antifreeze from Screwfix in all new installs at 25% concentration, it is economical and the Flomasta inhibitor is compatible so you can top up to maintain the anti corrosion properties and extend the drain down and refill intervals.

Introducing antifreeze and topping up to a sealed system is straight forward and filling loops have non return valves to ensure no back flow, do you really believe WRAS would appove such systems to the municiple domestic supply otherwise. As you rightly say, a ittle knowlege etc. Short answer is yes.