lewisericeric

Thanks for the advice on this, guys. I'll contact some gas guys, but really would like to run the line myself. It's a single piece of pipe, so any help with diameters, would be great. Oven is 2.5kw with a 2.2 integral grill and I'm having the Thetford 931 hob which is a total of 5kw over three rings. Any advice helpful in the meantime but will also check with whoever I have to come fit things

Hi All I wonder if anyone can advise, but I'm ideally wanting to 'run' my own gas line, in preparation for having a gas guy come to fit my hob and oven. Just to confirm here, I have NO INTENTION of fitting or connecting any gas appliances myself, I just want to run/clip the gas line under my gunnel so it's ready at the kitchen end and ready in my utility room end for the gas guy to then take outside to the gas lockers. I'll of course run a single length of copper pipe, but woudl rather do this myself. The gas line has to go out the back and my bathroom and bedroom are fitted, polished, painted and looking pristine and I now don't want someone with little care ripping it to bits to put the gas line in, dirty hands,etc. I know it must be clipped, but was wondering: a) what size/type of copper pipe to lay, i.e. 5mm copper brake pipe? and b) I'm sure the clipping had to be done every 20-30cm? What clips to use? Any advice appreciated. Thanks!

Thanks! Yes, remembered re the earth, but that's useful so thanks a lot!

Hi guys I've got a 240/standard house pendant that I want to wire into where there's a spot light in my ceiling.... I've got a bulb from bedazzled so it can run on 12v, but I'm just wondering on the pendant I have live/neutral/earth wires, where do these correspond to on the black and red cables on the 12v circuit? How should this be wired up? I should know this by now but can never remember!

Thanks everyone. Had some further unusual activity yesterday when high revving. Called Barrus who said all of it doesn't sound quite right, so they're coming up on Tuesday to have a look.

Hi guys, tahnks for the responses. My fuel filter has a drain on it, so I turned fuel lines off and drained it. I've drained into the end of a plastic pop bottle. All looked like diesel to begin with but now it seems like tiny little spots of water, on the inside of the bottle right at the very bottom.... It did just start raining though at the same time, so worried it could be those just showing 😂 Does it take a while for the water to separate out from the filter when you've drained like that or would it be two separate liquids straight away? I've then put the engine back on and seems to be fine, but popping the revs up to 1500 did see one or two instances of it 'missing a beat' (?) or changing tone, but I have heard from Barrus directly that if I've no load/batteries this can happen and I've just had an outage with my battery system so leisures are currently disconnected at the moment.

Hi All I've a brand new Barrus Shire 43 on my new build narrowboat. It's barely been on... Last night, I turned it on for battery charging and after about 20 minutes, the engine revs started altering/hunting and the exhaust was pluming out thick white smoke.... I tried to rev it to see if that would clear it, but it actually made it worse. Smoke was white. Very thick. What are the chances on a brand new engine eh? Anyone any ideas? I'm thinking an issue with injectors or coolant?

Thanks so much everyone for all the helpful information. Tom/Bex, do you know if the actual unit and tank could be installed (For ease) in my utility room - similar to an engine bay, it's at the back of the boat, not accessible by door from the bedroom only via the back deck doors. Or do these units HAVE to be in the engine bay themselves?

Thanks Alan - yes it's not a Webasto or similar, a cheap Chinese one! So good if anyone does have any info on what needs changing and if this could be mounted in my separate-to-main-cabin "utility room"

Hi All Looking to install a diesel air/fan heater and wondering where to put the unit. My boat is a cruiser stern, but limited space on the bulkhead walls in the engine bay now, plus as the heaters have their own little 10l diesel tank, could be fiddly/irritating having to go in engine bay to refill. My boat will be trad layout with bedroom at the back, but unlike most boats, I'll have a separate utility room after the bedroom.... this room is NOT accessible from the bedroom (i.e. no door to it) so I'm wondering if the heater could be mounted in there.... It's no different to if I had an engine room on a trad stern and there's also going to be no door between it and the bedroom for any potential leaks? Are there any issue around BSS does anyone know?

Tony, may I send you a DM somehow?

Just changing tack slightly, what about a diesel heater - aka something similar to the cheap chinese blow heaters, to heat the water in the calorifier? Does anyone currently do this? Is it possible? I had Webasto on my last boat, but oddly, for it to heat the water in the calorifier I still had to have one rad open in the boat in summer otherwise it never seemed to heat the calorifier water up?

Thanks Tony, really useful stuff there.

Interesting, thanks. Just going back to an earlier point about lugging bottles in winter, the idea I think would be that the gas heater would be used mostly in summer - when I DON'T want to have an engine running if I'm not going anywhere. In winter, you'll have engine on more for charging, so you'll always have a vast array of hot water via the calorifier. Does anyone know how complex the Morco heaters are to plumb in? (I'm not talking about gas connection, but rather where abouts they need to sit on the plumbing line?)

Thanks tony, interesting idea. So the main, larger calorifier would be linked direct the engine, with the smaller calorifier linked to the large, main calorifier, but with no non-return valve.... If water can pass between the two units, would the engine also eventually heat up the smaller 'solar' unit too?

Hi Tony This is interesting. Sorry, gave half a story. The boat builder just built the shell. Fit out is now a combination of me/friends and then an electrician and, of course, gas will be done by a professional too. I could use two calorifiers then? A larger and a smaller.... is the 'series' plumbing of them a complicated task? Limited knowledge here so any more info would be really useful. Thanks Thanks Mike The way I see it, the diesel central heating would cost £5k to install and realistically, I don't think I'd be using it at all in another year or two the way diesel prices are going.... I know the same is happening with gas, but gas heaters are a few hundred quid (Morco). It terrifies me I've had another diesel engine(!) never mind chucking money on plumbing/rads/units for central heating.... I'm building this boat as an 'apocolypse' boat!!! It's 70ft, two woodburners (not going down the back boiler route) and no central heating. Valid point re lugging the gas bottles v diesel and I am still considering getting a cheap diesel blow heater for additional heat should I need it/can't be a*sed firing up one of the woodburners, but it's options for hot water that's a bit of a bamboozle at the moment.

Hi guys I'm at a bit of a crossroads with my new build. I always thought I'd go with a calorifier and a gas water heater on my new build, but now not sure. (Mostly as I hate the idea of the gas heater unit on the walls). I'm not having diesel central heating, so will have no other means to heat hot water, and always hated the fact I'd have to have my engine on in summer JUST for hot water when it otherwise wasn't needed as solar would take care of the electrical side of things. I am having a solar dump put on my calorifier by my electrician, although he advises these work better on smaller calorifiers and I am having a 95/100litre calorifier... What's the general consensus around having the gas water heaters as well as calorifier? Do any of you have a preference for one over the other? Be good to hear some thoughts!

As with anything "scientific", there'll be 50 people that say one thing and 50 that say the other. How confusing haha but thanks for the input

The BSS site has a link to an installation diagram and it states on there about a double-lined flue. It's not exactly clear if this is mandatory or not, which is why I was checking on here. My boat is a new shell, so I can't get away with it being deemed as acceptable cos it's an older boat... just wanted to check. I've heard other stuff about twin wall flues being better for draught/draw though? and less smoke when opening the door of the stove to refuel?

Hi guys I can't make out if it's mandatory for BSS or just recommend but do flues now HAVE to be double-skinned? Are single skin flues still allowed in new builds? Always thought they were better re extra heat from the flue itself

Thanks for the input guys. As always on Canal World, lots of differing theories there 😂

I've heard arguments about it being so far under the water there's no oxygen etc. etc., but is this wise or not?

What's everyone's thoughts on boat builders who build boats and black at build stage, but state that they don't black the very bottom of the hull? Is this standard practice?

Plenty of time for all that nonsense when I've passed on.

That's odd. I supposedly have thermal break double glazing on this boat (Caldwells) and I get horrendous amounts of condensation on the frame still. 🙄