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by'eck last won the day on November 24 2015

by'eck had the most liked content!

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About by'eck

  • Birthday 03/06/49

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    East Harling
  • Interests
    Boat electrics & electronics
    Vintage vehicles and engines

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  • Occupation
  • Boat Name
    Ecky Thump
  • Boat Location
    Milton Keynes

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  1. It's imperative you have an RCD after the inverter part of your Victron together with earth/inverter neutral strap to provide clear conditions for safety trip when AC is being provided by battery power. The latter should be provided by the Victron with automatic disconnention of this strap when shore power is passed through the Victron to your AC distribution sockets. An RCD on the shoreline feed to Victron would be optional since there would (should) be one on the shore power pedestal protecting downstream. ETA: the galvanic isolator should be fitted immediately after shore power inlet.
  2. Spoke to my local powder coating company recently regarding engine components being coated. It was explained that they normally bake at 180°C so no issues with painted items as long as they stayed below 170°C. Rocker and timing covers on a hot running air cooled V twin have been fine. Doubt very much if a chimney collar would get that hot.
  3. Another idea is to use combined switch breakers. I have various current ratings on a custom made panel to protect and control 20 circuits. Although many are used daily for switching there have been no issues in 5 years of regular use. Ones on the right are identical in function to those on left but for circuits normally permanently live.
  4. A well discussed subject but many seem to fail to grasp the large number of variables that contribute to your boat causing excessive movement to moored boats you pass. These include and where possible in order of importance: Depth of water at mooring particularly and where moving boat is How well moored boat is tied up Speed of passing boat Width of canal or river Hull shape and draught of passing boat to mention just a few. This means that a badly tied up boat can be moved around by a boat passing at little over 1 mph in some circumstances, whilst the same boat in others will have little effect travelling at 4 mph. It's definatly a case of horses for courses and common sense has to prevail rather than absolute speeds. The effect your boat has on the bankside will often give a clue.
  5. Left my boat at Frouds bridge, Devizes and Caen hill at various times last year. Caen hill the most expensive, but no problems getting into any mid season.
  6. Hi kevoisier That's not just an inverter you have but a combined battery charger and inverter traditionally known as a Combi. It's quite an old one, could be 15 years or more so little chance of finding a manual on-line although as suggested Sterling may be able to help. The info from pictures indicates the multi-stage charger can supply up to 65 amps to a 12 volt battery bank when mains/shore power is available, whilst also passing through the mains supply to your on board sockets. The inverter part produces 240 volts AC from your batteries to the same sockets. The rating converted to watts would be a max of around 1200 watts although probably not a pure sine wave so may cause hum powering a TV. Beware that most Combi's automatically switch over to inverter when the shore power is lost, to maintain the 240 volt AC supply to sockets. Sounds very convenient but if the meter runs out or the shore power is tripped the batteries will be drained providing the AC, possibly without you knowing! After buying batteries, make sure charger is set to match their type. Suggest at least three typical 105 amp hour leisure batteries wired in parallel.
  7. Would have been nice but not a volocky in sight when I dropped through the flight solo, single handed, midday and midweek a couple of weeks ago. Got the full attention of the Gongoozlers at top lock therefore. Intimidating but just got on with it - trip boat was heading the other way - just as well by the sound of it. Can't remember seeing a lock landing either, had to tie up just round the corner and fight my way through crowded market!
  8. Yes I previously had the same thoughts but equally couldn't accept that enough vacuum could be present behind piston to cause stiffness. All I know is that it was difficult to unscrew end cap and withdraw piston.
  9. As already suggested perfectly feasible. The most obvious/simplest installation would be to have the generator cooled by a closed circuit skin tank. The thermostat bypass on genny would then feed a heating coil in the calorifier before return to engine circulating pump. Since its likely your main engine is also cooled and heats the calorifier in a similar manner, the simplest solution would be to have dedicated heating coils for each. Calorifiers are available with up to three coils to save messing with complex plumbing to share a coil.
  10. Keep the greaser full. When the cylinder is less than half full, grease can creep past the piston seal and this somehow causes the operation to be very stiff I've found. Re-filling always cures the problem.
  11. I'm hoping for another 200+ years on mine It needed 1st undersize crank re-grind at 70 years leaving two more
  12. Please take the advice already given. To answer your specific questions though when powering oven from inverter, you would need one or more engine alternators providing a total of around 250 amps and it's unlikely you have these. The battery bank would ideally need a capacity in excess of 500 amp hours to allow for situation when engine not running. The inverter would be working for sustained periods close to it's limit so will get hot. How long it survives depends on the quality but I wouldn't put money on that being too long. When on shore power you may be close to tripping the bollard breaker if you have any other mains devices such as chargers running. In summary even if you engineer your electrics to power the oven, you will need to rush around turning off other battery and mains powered devices every time you wish to use the oven.
  13. It must be at least two years ago that Sterling did introduce a Charger only facility on all their range of Combi's. I enquired if it could be retro-fitted to earlier models and the answer was yes but at a price and factory fitted.
  14. Hi Ratty, Two questions: Have you tried a different mains socket on the bollard as they each have their own breaker? Have you ensured that all mains devices are turned off other than the Sterling Combi? This would include immersion heater and any other mains device supported by the Combi, mains fridge for example. It's not apparent from the photo which Sterling Combi model you have, but the largest version has a 100 amp charger and can give more. This means it takes a fair amount of power from the shore supply which when added to that supplying other devices may trip an over sensitive breaker. Finally by way of advice, always turn the Combi off when shore power not present and you don't require AC on board. Failing to do this will mean the charger is regularly working flat out to re-charge batteries, which I suspect is contributory to your problem. If it's any consolation, I had virtually the same issue when using my own Sterling Combi. Having tripped the shore breaker by being a numpty and adding an electric kettle to the load, I didn't notice the inverter on the Combi had take over, consequently batteries were drained a little. Had to switch all other AC loads off to avoid tripping the sensitive 16 amp breaker again when I realised the problem - CombI was putting 110 amps into batteries for a while!
  15. French brass Klaxon horn.mp3