by'eck

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About by'eck

  • Rank
    Long Standing Member
  • Birthday 03/06/49

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    East Harling
  • Interests
    Boat electrics & electronics
    Vintage vehicles and engines

Contact Methods

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    richardhula
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    richardhula@yahoo.com
  • Website URL
    http://eckythumper.blogspot.com/

Previous Fields

  • Occupation
    Retired
  • Boat Name
    Ecky Thump
  • Boat Location
    Aldermaston
  1. Can't you source some heavy gauge brass strip, maybe from a tip and drill accordingly?
  2. I ran two Sterling 50 amp chargers in parallel on a previous boat. Sterling even offered a double mount bracket to achieve such. Just connect them to batteries as you would a single unit with independent cables and fuses.
  3. And not dissimilar from the one piece Bugle which was the mutts nuts when I was sailing in the early 2000's. Small hole is for upsetting via anchor float line.
  4. Interesting that the government think so highly of our newish 70mpg or 150 bhp diesel Mini that they only charge £30/yr VED. Doesn't really stack up with the latest media round of anti-diesel hype.
  5. Seem to remember a batch of 2LW's were built in the mid 90's to service an order to replace worn out ones in South African mining loco's. A few UK orders were tagged onto this. Remember viewing a 1995 high spec nb built with a new one. Marine Dorman 4DSM and gearbox - 20hp @ 1000rpm
  6. Trembler coils, one for each cylinder controlled by a low voltage distributor, produced multiple sparks on early cars such as the first Model T's, allowing the possibility of starting a stationary engine when the advance/retard control was adjusted. Have witnessed this method of starting on a vintage Rolls departing a car ferry. Not sure it would work so well with more conventional single spark coil ignition system.
  7. Exactly but his proposal amounts to a fruitless re-invention of the wheel. What has been suggested is a proven alternative that still utilises a generator powering an electric propulsion motor, but in the most efficient manner.
  8. CCA is time, temperature and voltage related but only likely achievable in a laboratory or possibly for the first few occasions the battery is used. Although CCA and amp hour capacity of a battery go hand in hand, it seems to me the latter is a better parameter to be considered long term when choosing a starter battery, subject to its ability to supply adequate current in the first place. No point in having a high CCA battery if it fails to have the remaining capacity to supply the required current long enough to start a stubborn engine. I'm sceptical therefore of Lithiom Ion baterries for start applications. Given their low weight they seem to be a popular choice in car racing applications supplying high CCA but with relatively low capacity. Interesting also that many hybrid cars whilst employing Li-Ion for main storage still use a lead/acid battery to start the engine.
  9. Take a look at car hybrid systems. Remember that your electric propulsion motor won't be running at full chat all the the time, so a set of batteries to take up the slack and fill in when power requirements are highest will be by far the most practical and economic solution. A relatively small and commonly available 240v AC generator driving a smart mains charger should be fine once the average power requirements are catered for in terms of battery bank size and charge capability. A bonus is that batteries can also get charged when shore power is available, with no additional equipment expense.
  10. Nothing wrong with 12 volt 3000 watt inverter/Combi installation as long as it's engineered properly with short battery cable runs of correct gauge. Regarding Whisper generators, my experience with 6kVA 3000rpm Lombardini engined version was that basic engine and alternator were fine, but the rest of the installation particularly the wiring and electronics were rubbish. Not surprised that Mastervolt divorced themselves from any connection with product. Must have represented a huge embarrassment for them.
  11. I would have agreed but for the fact that Martyn at MPS had several substancial offers when word got around he was rebuilding one (a slower revving 6L3) for a private customer some years back. It was to refit in ex fireboat Beta III, undergoing a full restoration at the time. Tony Redshaw had a rare marine 3L3 in his then new location at Daventry a few years back, and maybe still has. 8L3's were a popular fit in diesel shunters.
  12. Further thoughts are that this may be a voltage sensing issue which only manifests itself in float mode. The 50 amp Sterling charger I imagine you have is a three output one. If so any unused positive output must be strapped/connected to to one that is, typically the one feeding the largest battery bank. If only one output is used both the others must be strapped to it to avoid artificially high voltage sensing. If, and I appreciate it's a big if, it proves to be the case, its something you could easily check and correct yourself.
  13. The only time this and probably most other multi-stage chargers will put out zero charge current is following the transition from higher absorb voltage to float, before the batteries adjust to the lower voltage. During this temporary condition a discharge current may be seen on a battery monitor despite charger remaining on. Another charge source (solar, engine alternator or another mains charger) holding the batteries above the charger in questions regulating voltage will also cause it to temporarily cease producing a charge current. I have to say though that 11 volts is way below any float voltage so assuming this is an accurate figure, looks like the charger has a fault.
  14. A multi-stage charger in the initial constant current mode sometimes exceeds it's max output current for a short while after initial switch on. I have seen 108 amps from my Sterling Combi''s 100 amp rated charger, with highest figures ironically when batteries only partially discharged. In OP's case 25 amp fuse is too low suggesting that manufacturer lacked confidence in the product. Suggest 50 amp replacement.
  15. Agree on use of long shaft and best/only method for a single hander. You are already at the stern so with boat gently in reverse, pushing initially with long shaft away from bank will have the stern moving out towards centre of canal/river. The wind force on the shallower draught bow will keep it sliding along the bank and thus maintain your diagonal progress in reverse. When stern is well over to windward side forward can be engaged with plenty of rudder to steer bow away from bank.