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Hannah and Jay

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Everything posted by Hannah and Jay

  1. Hi all... Does anyone have any experience in replacing a morso squirrel door handle? Ours has become worn out and occasionally will just pop open and I wanted to replace it before autumn else risk hot coals on the floor! Surprisingly I can't find any online advice on doing this although plenty of places sell replacement handles Thanks, Hannah
  2. Many thanks for so many replies! Just to confirm, yes its a perkins p4. Older than 1978 as it pre-dates the two letter prefix before the engine number. And yes, I meant fresh water cooled rether than raw water, my bad... So I have lots more leads to follow now in terms of replacing or refurbing pump. And I realise that changing the engine, mounts, etc, may cost a lot more than £800 so we're prob better off paying for a refurb pump. I'm just worried that we'll run into more problems down the road and it seems so difficult to get replacement parts for an engine of its age I'll follow up on all the pump specialists you've listed, Thank you!
  3. What engine would you buy?! We're thinking of replacing our old p4 as it's ancient and difficult to find parts for (we're still having no luck with a replacement injector pump!) The boat is a 57ft springer and the budget is around £800. To go for something like a bmc or lister (we currently have a raw water cooling system) or something Japanese maybe? Hoping to sell the old lump for around £400. Advice appreciated as always
  4. Wow thanks for replies, an emotive topic we have no 240v on board only 12v. Glad to hear some people have had success with the "kettle lead" type IEC connectors. My issue with the cigarette types isn't overloading or burning them out, its the crap welding inside which doesn't withstand things being plugged/unplugged regularly, we've had ours apart to solder so many times. Maplin bought but obviously not well built. And the DIN ones are all a bit unsightly unless you go to the bother of nicely mounting them in some wood which I don't have time for. Ideally would like a little mountable "bank" of three of the kettle type ones
  5. Tired of cigarette sockets breaking on the boat, they just aren't built well for daily use in my opinion. I've read threads about alternatives, DIN ones etc, but was wondering whether anyone's installed these IEC sockets (kettle lead types) like this... www.olson.co.uk/iec320_options_fused.htm Cheers, Hannah
  6. The whole engine was submerged in november so I guess some rusting of bearings may have occurred. Will take apart and clean up tomorrow. Worst case will need a new pump. Hope they are easy/quick to buy as need to move boat rather soon
  7. Thanks mike - will try the pragmatic version tomorrow! And its a jabsco foot mounted engine cooling pump on our ancient 4 cylinder perkins engine
  8. Engine hasn't really been ran for 5 months due to emulsified oil in engine and gear box. This has been sorted now but now the water cooling pump isn't working. Belt has been tightened to the max but it still won't drive, will move slightly by hand but very stiff, what's the best course of action?
  9. Having got water in the engine we are in the process of flushing it through. Is it necessary with every flush to change the oil filter? Ours is the old canister type with the circular concertina gauze inside, which is nigh impossible to clean (esp when full of oil/water mix).
  10. thanks for advice all... will see what oil filter we have and change that
  11. massive school boy error not to have the weed hatch secured in place, isn't it??! we learnt the hard way on the weekend and nearly sunk the boat after ours popped off during lots of revving after getting stuck on the river.. now the p4 perkins engine was still working when it was fully sunmerged and my partner had to turn it off before bailing out in a panic.. luciliy no water got in the air intake... but theblock did get water ingress... as much milky fluid has been pumped out of it as possible and plan is to next fill her with oil again, flush this through and then fill once more with oil, is there anything else we need to be considering? many thanks, hannah
  12. ha ha... thanks aladin, what can u use the 12v output for? glad to hear fast charging them won't damage them, i know they can be fickle...
  13. i have two options on my battery chlarger, fast charge and trickle charge, will it cause longer term damage to my 115AH lesuire batteries if i charge them on "fast charge"? And also, the new genie has 12v output as well as 240v but the guy in the shop said we're likely to get faster battery charging out of the 240 output via a battery charger than directly from the 12v output on the genie, why is this? sounds a bit backwards to me.... cheers hannah
  14. Found the problem, its the wrong bloody pump! My partner installed it before i got to see it and assumed i had gone for another pump, on googling the model number on the side of the otherwise blank pump body, turns out its a par max 4 for use in a flushing toilet system rather than the par max 3 i ordered from mailspeed marine... They are uwfully sorry and are now out of stock of the par max three, and we don't now know whether we'll get a refund as it has already been installed, grrrrr... Lesson learnt- don't shop with mailspeed marine!!
  15. Ok, thanks, i will check connections in the day light tommorrow. Although when you open the taps the pump kicks in proper. The heat of the thing on standby is concerning!
  16. So the old jabsco water pump packed in and as we were in a hurry i ordered the exact same model, a jabsco par-max 3. Now it came with all sorts of strange extra bits and instructions for a sea toilet and its got me thinking that this pump isn't built to provide for a domestic water system, particularly as it does this super slow noise frequently that sounds like some sort of creature under our bed, not even a whiring but very slow frequent mechanical sounds that dims the lights every minute or so meaning we are having to turn it off at theswitch all the time..plus thepump itself is quite warm wen it is in said creature mode... Can any one shed any light on this? Thanks The pump has been on (but not in use) for two hours and the body of its not just warm its hot! What is it up to?
  17. Thanks for responses... I STILL don't know how to multiquote so a general reply... We have MR11 one watt bulbs, that's not a problem, one pound a pop from china and they are great. Its sourcing suitsble fittings that's the prob. The ceiling's original we haven't touched that and isulated with poly hense not running wiring behind ceiling (which would be WAY to tricky in this case anyhow) hense running wiring this side of ceiling and in time, in trunking. Struggling to find mr11 fittings that do not need to be recessed into ceiling and instead just sit flush on it... Our wiring is multistranded 1mm2 and I'll have to clarify with inspector whether he'll pass this (although I haven't seen any thing in the bss on wiring capacity and its certainly not in 3.3.1, the only electrical thing he failed us on. Will also clarify with him that regular cable clips is sufficient to pass it but I sure as hell hope that the wire size isn't a massive stumbling block because replacing that will take time and money that we are equally short of at the moment!
  18. Our lil boat has just failed its safety on a few minor points, all resolved accept one... A fail on 3.3.1 "Are all electrical cables supported in a safe position?" At the time of the test the examiner said it was because our lighting wire was attached to the ceiling with a few sporadic cable clips and drooping in between cable clips. We plan to trunk this wire once we have found suitable light fittings for our MR11 1W bulbs (which we are also fiding difficult to source...). Now firstly will it pass if we secure the wire with lots of cable clips and make the wiring suitably taught? Or does it HAVE to be trunked/in a conduit? Secondly he remarked that he would have used fatter wire for the lighting, its garden lighting wire sold to us by a good friend who has worked on boats for years and really knows what he's doing. When i spoke to the examiner yesterday he couldn't remember whether he had also failed us on cable capacity but on checking the fail sheets, he's only failed us on 3.3.1 in section three which doesn't mention wire cqpacity, can he fail this on the retest? Cos u sure cant do that on an MOT! Thanks for any advice... Hannah
  19. Ever feel like your post has been hijacked so people can have a dig at each other??! Thanks for all the USEFUL advice but as for the rows about metric pipe, even what is a pipe, how about starting separate threads for these rather dull arguments! And to the poster who didn't have patience for my rather incompetant IT skills and instead of offering friendly advice (surely what this forum should be about?) on how to multiquote, was rather rude, may I suggest the sage advice of my old grannie - If you can't say something nice, don't say anything at all! I'd really like to see these Calor tables that have been mentioned, I'll try and google them, to figure out whether 3/8" or 1/2" would be more suited to our purposes (PLease note - I did not even mention the word imperial!!)
  20. I wouldn't use old pipe either, you can use either 8 or 10mm I think we used 10mm which I recall was because we might add other gas appliances. We used P clips to secure pipe that are padded with neoprene, you only need to affix them using one hole and they absorb vibration as well as protect the pipe. P clips http://www.juststain...lips/p_clip.asp The P clips look good. Don't think we'll go for a bubble tester though, just a test end point on the system, they're pretty pricey... The longer it is, the more likely it is that 1/2" rather than 3/8" is the correct choice. You can't make it too big, so if in doubt I'd go 1/2" Ok good to know you can't go too big, haven't looked at the prices for 1/2" yet but should only have to buy it once.. Last point is there is no good reason NOT to use your existing 3/8" pipe if the lengths are long enough and you have enough of it. Run separate lengths of it to EACH APPLIANCE from a manifold near the regulator and it will be big enough. Running all those appliances on one single, shared 3/8" pipe will definitely lead to a 'FAIL' as the pressure drop with all appliances running together will be too great to meet BS 5482 part III. So you think the pipe can be reused? Never seen single runs of pipe for each appliance though, seems a bit extravagant.. Think I'd rather go for the 1/2" As for the gas PTFE, the same friend (non-pro) recommended using it, I certainly won't be using it now and i'll let him know this info too.. See what happens when I try and multi-quote!!!!
  21. Thanks MoominPapa (Great name!) That kind of makes sennse. Weigh in and buy new, now to convince the other half of that!
  22. I know some people may recommend getting a professional in to fit the gas supply system but we have researched it thoroughly and are planning install a simple system ourselves. In terms of appliances we have a Paloma water heater and an oven and at a later stage may incorporate a gas fidge. Now a friend has recommended that we use 1/2" diameter pipe rather than the usual 3/8" standard copper pipe to ensure enough supply when using say, the oven, the shower and the fridge all at the same time... Is this really necessary or will the 3/8" stuff suffice? We have plenty of 3/8" pipe to do the job from the old fit out of the boat and would ideally like to reuse this to cut down on cost.. The other question is the type of fixing points to use when securing the gas pipe to the steel sides of the hull on the deck... Previously it was secured with clips that were screwed right through the hull with two screws per clip. All these have been removed and holes filled when we were working on the hull. I am aware that is is against BBS requirements to use adhesive directly onto gas pipe to secure it (and sounds like a pretty stupid thing to do anyway) but is it ok to adhere the clips for the pipe to the hull with something like sticks like s**t to avoid having to screw through the hull again? Thanks for any advice in advance, I'm sure it will be invaluable as usual! Cheers Hannah
  23. Right, no its not the right stuff, was only a tenner so giving it to a mate. of to travis perkins me thinks for the real deal...
  24. Above the gunwales our boat is insulated with good old polystyrene behind the T&G, we want to run cable for the lighting behind this but I've heard that it shouldn't be done as overtime the polystyrene can "react" with the cable and cause unwanted problems, is this true? And if so, is there a special type of cable that you can use for this purpose as we don't really want ugly wires running to lights on top of the T&G and there isn't really the space to fit any housing plus wire behind the T&G.....
  25. OK so I was looking in Wickes for some master board/cement board to use behind our stove and only found this stuff called Knauf Fireshield, the guy in Wickes seemed to Think it was the right stuff so I bought some. Its a big 8 by 4 sheet and looks just like plaster board and was next to all the other sheets of erm... plasterboard and i'm afraid I might have just purchased, you guessed it, plasterboard... I says it has superior fire resistance and I've tried looking up all the technical data of it online but i still cant fathom out if it is the same stuff as master/cement board. Can anyone shed light on this?? Thanks
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