flatplane8

Somewhere back in the mists of time there was a thread on here by Caspar Ghost who had adapted a volvo flywheel and starter motor to a vintage diesel. It was an ingenious solution using stock automotive parts.

One of the engine starting https://youtu.be/YIznzDQ-E18 One of cutting the exhaust hole https://youtu.be/2MGcjRrNFLs

Ever wondered what to do with these big lumps of machined cast iron once you have marinised your engine? Well, this was our solution https://youtu.be/NatSc3QD8ag

They sound like interesting engines, but as others have said, not as popular as they once were. We sold a good running JP3m with blackstone gearbox last year and I didn't get as much as I'd hoped. Around £2.5k for a good marine one, and £1 to £1.5k for the industrial one. You could well get more, but details and photos will help. We sold via ebay in the end. These engines get lots of interest, but few genuine buyers.

I can't remember if I've posted this before, but there are now several videos on our channel about the re-engine project on 'Misterton'. The first one is here.

Its been almost three year but thought I'd update this thread. The engine is now in the barge and bolted down. I'd been pondering the issue of the split pins not fitting so sought advice from Marine Power Services. They were very helpful and suggested what a number of others have in as much as torque figures were a late introduction to the building of these engines. On looking at them again, I found most of them would line up with an additional 5-10lbft or torque (over the initial 65ftlbs). In this position, the numbers stamped onto the nuts would then be facing outwards, so I would guess that they were lined up there originally and then the nuts stamped. For about 6 of the nuts I needed to rub them down on a file placed on a workbench, turning them every few strokes to get them even. This enabled them to line up within the torque range. I put in the split pins, bent the ends round tight and then backed the nuts off a 'smidge' to grip the pins to prevent them rattling around and fretting. Thanks to all who offered advice, especially Martyn of MPS.

Lister JP3m, ours, so remove if too much of an add. Its rare to see a complete & running genuine marine JP3 with a history of commercial use, it would be great if it could go to a good home.

Its out and now on ebay... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/153466462758?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649

Just that it seems to be a common thing to replace on these, you can hear a knocking sound at times. Here is a video of it starting a couple of years ago and here is one of it going along the river When its ready to come out I'll post up another video with some more detail.

Hi, I plan to remove 'Misterton's; JP3M this winter so that we can replace it with the JK4 and gearbox I've been working on. Its a complete, working engine, that starts first time (as long as the engine room temperature is above freezing!) by hand, there is no electric start. The dry sump oil tank has been replaced with a stainless steel one, using the original Lister filter screens and access hatches. Its scruffy, despite being re-painted a few years ago. There is plenty of background information on this forum and on our barge's website. This engine was only the second one 'Misterton' has had and was installed in 1984 at Waddington's yard in Swinton. It saw commercial use on the Humber for a decade after that. I'll advertise it officially when its out, but thought anyone seriously interested might want to see it in situ before then. We've just come back from 10 days out on the Norfolk Broads where it performed without problem. If I was keeping it I'd want to check the big end bearings etc. I'll be asking £3.5k with the 2:1 Blackstone reduction box included. Mods, if this is too much like an ad, please remove. Thanks, Simon

Hi, I got a 95a marine alternator from ebay and drive it from the flywheel of our JP3. A normal 'v' belt runs fine on the flat flywheel surface with an ordinary 'v' pulley on the alternator. Have a look for previous threads about this, including the one I started last week about pulleys. Simon

Yes, we'll get a flange made up to use the three big studs. Just working out the best coupling to use between the engine and gearbox to try and fit it all into the engine room (length-wise).

Thanks, that's what I thought. Sounds like neat solution for the pulley on a JP2/3 though.

That sounds interesting. Would it be capable of taking drive to a gearbox? I need to make an adaptor for my JK and was going to use the three threaded studs that would have connected it to the generator, but something like that could be another option. My gut feeling is that its fine for pulley loads, but might not be great with a whole 62hp going through it.

Thanks, I'll check it out, it would be a solution if it worked ok driving an alternator.

Thanks, our current arrangement driven from the flywheel does this so we can go pretty large on any pulley. My question is more around adding 14-20kg of rotating mass on the crankshaft. But I guess that's tiny compared to a JP/JK flywheel. Thanks for the other suggestions, I'm not sure round belting would suit alternator drives but will check it out.

Thanks, I use nutlink belting elsewhere. It won't work when run directly onto a flywheel, as the metal pins skate across the surface under load (ask me how I know...… I currently run our alternator directly off the flywheel as you describe, but this won't be ideal with JK4.

Hi, What size pulleys have people successfully fitted to JP/JKs? I'm looking at larger sizes to drive an alternator and possibly a 240v generator. This would be crankshaft mounted via a taperlock. I currently run our alternator from the flywheel rim via a belt, but this won't be a great option with our JK4, as the flywheel will be close coupled to a gearbox. I realise I could still use this method, but it would be nice to avoid breaking the coupling to change belts. Large (400-630mm dia.) pulleys are readily available, but they are between 12-20kgs in weight and I my not sure if this would be an issue on the end of the crankshaft. I've seen alternators driven by little rubber wheels from the rim of the flywheel, does anyone have any experience with such a setup? Thanks, Simon

Ruston....looks nice https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ruston-Hornsby-Engine-Diesel/173627147015?_trkparms=aid%3D888007%26algo%3DDISC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140328180637%26meid%3D3e492e15c9c448bab44e47d74e837ef0%26pid%3D100009%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26sd%3D332857205202%26itm%3D173627147015&_trksid=p2047675.c100009.m1982

I think they used an add template for a Loncin engine. If you scroll past that you get to the description of the JP3M.

Lister JP3M on ebay Seller also mentions a JP2m for sale. There is also a nice looking JP1 generating set just appeared on ebay too.

Here is a little video taken last night of a Morse control being used on a Lister JK4.

Ah, see what you mean now, thanks for clarifying. Our JP3 is now controlled via a cable mechanism and we use the stops built into that to achieve the same thing. Yes, too much tension on the speeder spring could cause undue load on the engine.

I'm not sure I see the logic in this as the spring works in tension only (until coil bound then I guess you could push on it), but I'll be trying out this very thing (morse control onto the speeder spring) on the JK4 later today in the workshop so will report back.

I experimented with a Davies Craig electric pump and controller on my Lister JP3 a few years ago. The pump speed adapts based on the temperature sensed. It seemed to work fine, but I had other problems with the system that I'd cobbled together, so took it off. The electric pump was for the engine coolant with antifreeze, a normal pump did the river water through the heat exchanger.