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About flatplane8

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    Boatyard owner
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  1. Kris Kruisers in Dachet opposite Windsor castle grounds do attended pumpout, we used to take Misterton there. Also Penton Hook marina has a pumpout, from memory though the token were about £17.......
  2. A couple of Lister videos, first is the JP3 M on 'Misterton' starting (thanks to Mike Askin for the string/decompressor trick) and the second is a Lister D powered cement mixer we have on ebay at the moment. Misterton JP3M Lister D
  3. Here is one ocean going boat with a JP in it.
  4. Hi, I guess sometimes, like anyone, I question my choices. I can't recall any sea going boats that still use these engines. Its narrowboats and a few barges. Going across the channel is way off the future, so there would be plenty of local trials. Meanwhile the current JP3m keeps chugging (noisily) along. Simon
  5. Kromhout M1 on Apollo duck.
  6. Yes, we go ok with the current 30hp (60-70tons), but stopping takes some planning. Any replacement engine will be run on the rivers round here first, so hopefully any problems will come to light on sheltered waters. I suppose I'm just questioning my choices, as fitting another old engine is my idea. My wife and young son, whilst supportive are more interested in going places on the barge safely, not what propels it.....for some reason I like British engineering, hence British barge, two British cars and the listers. My brother is a die hard air cooled VW fanatic. Must just be the way the DNA dice rolled
  7. The JK is a slightly higher speed version (1500rpm) that produces more power. For the 4 cylinder one it raises it from 38 to 62hp.
  8. Yes, no one can say really, more just general musing on my part. Lots have been used in sea going boats in the past (hence the dry sump option) but I think most now are pottering around on the canals.
  9. I've been an avid reader of these forums and others, ever since we got our barge with a JP3M in it. I'm now in the process of refreshing an ex-standby JK4 in order to get some more power, to help us to stop better amongst other reasons. Our barge traded on the Humber estuary to the north eastern canals from 1948 when the engine was first installed, to the second JP3 put in during the mid-1980s. That second engine is still in there. The barge was last used commercially in 1993. I like the engines, its a bit of a hobby for me, they have character and seem to be very over engineered for the modest power they produce. I've read recent posts about bearings crumbling through lack of use and cranks snapping and it does make me wonder sometimes if persisting with such an old engine is a good idea. I've measured end float on my JK crank and its as new, so I've left it alone. I know the only way to really know is to take the crank out and look, but then even if they look fine, the main bearings are old in terms of years if not hours run. Our intended use in the future is to go to mainland Europe, so a channel crossing or two will be on the cards in 5-10 years. I appreciate everyone has to judge how far to go with a rebuild themselves and no one can predict when a specific engine might fail. But are these engines just a bit old to be propelling a boat out of sight of land?
  10. Looking forward to seeing how you get on, they are pretty simple engines to work on and there is lots of good advice from the more experienced on here. Big end bearings seem in short supply, I had my shells re-metalled by JEL bearings @ £125 per journal.
  11. The 65ft/lbs figure comes from later versions of the manual, earlier versions just say 'do the bolts up'. It could be my torque wrenches are out of whack, I'll have to see if I can get them checked or find a third one to try.
  12. That's another idea to consider, perhaps a bit better than grinding small amounts of the face of the nut as the castellated part isn't providing the clamping force, so any metal removed there won't be a problem. I suppose the other thing I could do if part of the hole is exposed is use safety wire instead of split pins. I realise I may well be worrying about something that isn't worth worrying about, but its good to find out what others are doing.
  13. I'm guessing, it's a fraction of a turn. I've got two torque wrenches and they produce the same result. I tried another 5ftlbs and it barely moves, so to rotate that last bit will take quite a bit of force, hence my question. Thanks, Simon
  14. Hi, All the nuts are stamped with the rod number and the bolt that they correspond to, not sure why. I've kept them in the same order so would be reluctant to move them around. they may have been stamped after installation, as the 'flat' with the numbers stamped is the one that needs to move about 10 degrees to line up the hole. For now I'll continue with tightening them to 65ft/lbs and decide later whether to do anything else. As I read elsewhere on the internet a split pin won't hold a nut to a specified torque, rather it will stop it winding off (i.e. it could still move enough to reduce clamping force). Thanks for all the replies so far! Simon
  15. Thanks Bizzard, I've been looking on the internet and have found people championing every one of these suggestions, and also those saying just tighten to torque spec and that's it. They are the original bolts and I think over tightening them is probably a bad idea as it will take quite a bit more torque to get the slots to line up over the holes. So I guess its either grind a touch off the nuts, use locktite or just leave them be.