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Chewbacka

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Chewbacka last won the day on December 12 2016

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About Chewbacka

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  • Occupation
    Automotive Quality engineer - retired
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    Roaming Home

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  1. A concern in using this cable is that the steel braid must be correctly bonded to earth, I think it is common practice to use a gland at both ends with a metal box. In my boat the mains cables are all behind wood panels and fairly well protected from damage, so I wonder if you are solving a problem you don't really have coupled with the disadvantages of terminating this cable.
  2. This is the 2000 version and has been superseded by the 2012 version, so it would be a wise move to have a look on the Manchester Library web site and check if the bits you are interested in have changed.
  3. As it is the railings then the end part of 48 does apply "......or break, injure, deface, mark or otherwise damage or destroy any building, bridge, lock, gate, railing, fence, hedge ........." So you only have to mark the railings with your mooring ropes to risk being subject to the might of CRT byelaws.
  4. If the supplier has quoted a max safe load as 2.5amps then you should not use a fuse bigger than 2.5A You could use a fuse that is smaller if you wished, but remember how a fuse works. It works by getting hot and melting, so if a current is just below the fuse rating the fuse will be warm/hot which will oxidise and eventually fail, even though there are no faults, which is not good. To reduce the chance of nuisance fails the fuse needs to be rated about 25% or so bigger than the load so long as you do not exceed the max safe spec. Also consider the start up surge, so a fridge may only take an amp or so when running - and that is usually what will be on the rating plate - but on start-up may take many times more amps, so to avoid nuisance fuse 'blows' the fuse must be able to withstand the repeated start up surge over many years. The same applies to other devices with a start-up surge, such as pumps and some high wattage tungsten filament bulbs. So without knowing what load and type of load is present on each circuit it is difficult to suggest a fuse rated lower than the safe load for the cable, assuming the cable has been correctly sized for the application. Note that if this were 220vAC (domestic mains) generally speaking the cable size would be based only on load, however with 12V systems, cables are often over sized for the specified load to minimise volt drop to an acceptable level.
  5. I agree with you that it is the latent heat that will cool the boat, however there is usually some breeze, but even on a completely still day I would expect the sun to warm the steel work such that the air in contact will get warm/hot and will naturally rise taking the water vapour with it. I doubt a fan would help much unless it was massive, and then you would have to run the engine to power it and that would make the boat warmer...... However if using canal water you are going to end up with some interesting drying stains all over your steel work.
  6. Thanks, but that's not what I want, I deserve at least a certificate of excellence not just a certificate of 'turning up' for what ever course was on.
  7. Self certification - now what certificate shall I give myself?
  8. I used 'Tuckey' about 6 years ago, everything was on plan, and no damage. Make sure you know the weight and dimensions of the boat as there is no standard width for a fat boat and a very wide boat may have road access problems. But Tuckey will know far more than me, so give them a call.
  9. Most summers one or two of the G&S bridges get stuck shut when the sun is at it's hottest.
  10. According to Trip advisor the best things to see in Swindon include the Dog track, a couple of farms and a roundabout. So who says there is no culture or history in Swindon....... https://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/Attractions-g187049-Activities-c47-Swindon_Wiltshire_England.html
  11. I think a pipe stat will work fine on the rubber pipe, it will need to be set just a little cooler to ensure operation. If you want fancy probe type (eg http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DC-12V-Thermostat-Digital-Temperature-Control-Switch-Temp-Controller-20-90-/141755772403 ) where you can set the hysteresis to reduce pump cycling then to make the probe water proof, drill a blind hole into a brass/stainless bolt with a hole slightly wide than the probe and then with a dollop of epoxy, glue the probe into the bolt. A thin film of epoxy will not insulate your probe.
  12. I think that what often happens is when the second boat arrives they moor up about a boat length away from the first boat, as does the third etc, however if a couple of little boats arrive latter and fit in the gaps you then have big gaps between boats.
  13. Yeah I know. I buy them in threes from toolstation at just over a quid each, 3 will last the season. I am sure that if they cost more I would remember...................
  14. It's not the windlass I loose but the little 3/4" to 1/2" tap to hose pipe connector. I screw it onto the CRT water point and forget to unscrew when done.
  15. Rather than 'into the pipe' have you considered a simple pipe thermostat which straps onto the pipe - same as used on a domestic hot water tank? The old design, low cost ones are just a bi-metal strip with an adjusting knob to set the switch over temperature, so not much to go wrong. As they are usually low power AC if you do go this way, I would use it to switch a 12v relay to power the pump. The only concern I have with your idea is being confident that the pipe layout will ensure hot water reaches the point in the pipe where the sensor is before the engine overheats. I would probably also have a second unit to sound a buzzer in case of failure of the pump system to ensure there is no danger of overheating, together with a switch to force the pump relay on - in case you want to run the pump when the temp sensor says there is no need.